Wednesday, July 29, 2009

K&n air and oil filter

K&N Products 468x60

K&N Performance Gold® Oil Filters
Originally developed for demanding auto race applications, our premium automotive oil filter is rapidly becoming a favorite among consumers for its durability and easy removal. We’ve changed oil filters and several of our product development technicians are sportsman class drag racers. They insisted we offer an oil filter that corrected the “headaches” they experienced over the years changing oil filters.

Our Oil Filters Have Nuts
We have all been there: Whether it’s remembering where that disappearing canister tool is; or having oil leak all over your garage and yourself; or finally giving up and pounding a screwdriver through the filter just to get if off. Most of our canister type automotive and marine oil filters come with a 1” nut welded to the top of the canister so they can be easily wrenched-off with a standard tool. Most of our canister type motorcycle and ATV oil filters come with a 17 mm nut.

K&N Wrench-Off Oil Filters
K&N Canister Type Wrench-Off Automotive Oil Filters
K&N Canister Type Automotive Oil Filters

Heavy-Duty Construction for Extreme Conditions
To satisfy the demands of racers, our oil filter has many features over and above the requirements of most vehicles. We use thicker canister walls for extra strength and durability which reduces the risk of damage from loose rocks and debris. The heavy-duty construction will withstand higher oil pressures found only in racing environments without bursting. The drilled hole on the nut is for a safety wire attachment. Required for many types of racing, the safety wire prevents blown oil filters from falling on the track and representing a hazard to other race vehicles. This extra engineering offers peace of mind for consumers who want only the best.

K&N Automotive Oil Filter

Automotive Canister Oil Filter

K&N Motorcycle Oil Filter

Powersports Canister Oil Filter

K&N Oil Filters for motorcycles and ATV's
K&N Motorcycle & ATV Oil Filters

Canister Type Oil Filters

  • Drilled safety wire holes for racing in canister oil filters
  • Most have sturdy 1" (automotive) or 17 mm (motorcycle) wrench nut, where applicable, makes oil filter removal quick and easy
  • Heavy-duty construction
  • Resin-impregnated filter media provides maximum filtering surface for contaminant removal
  • Anti-drainback valve (where applicable) eliminates dry starts, prevents oil from draining back into crankcase during engine shutdown
  • Internally lubricated gasket provides positive seal while allowing easy on and off of filter
  • Rolled threads provide extra protection against stripping
High-Flow Rate
Our oil filters use resin impregnated cellulose filter media. This allows for higher flow rates while providing outstanding filtration. High filter flow rates are important in racing vehicles where heavier grade oil is used and the oil is pumped much faster than in a standard vehicle. When the engine is circulating oil at high GPM rates, the high-flow oil filter helps reduce the loss of pressure through the filtering process.

K&N Automotive Cartridge Oil Filter
K&N Automotive Cartridge Oil Filter

Compatible with the Latest in Synthetic Engine Oils
Our oil filters are ideal for high-end synthetic motor oil. Synthetic motor oil is said to offer improved flow performance at cold temperatures while providing superior protection against thermal degradation.

Our oil filters are covered by a limited warranty to be free from defects in materials and workmanship when installed and replaced using engine and equipment manufacturers recommended service intervals.

Our Performance Gold Oil Filters use a cellulose media bound by phenolic resin surrounding a metal inner core that provides structural strength to reduce the risk of filter collapse. The resin is the "glue" that holds the media fibers together and at the same time keeps "pores" open by keeping the fibers apart. The resin is cured to full strength during the element manufacturing process. Phenolic resin systems are an excellent choice for the high temperature demands of oil filters. Our filter includes an anti-drainback valve, when applicable, that prevents oil from draining back into the crankcase during engine shutdown. The anti-drainback valve is useful in situations where the filter is mounted horizontally which could allow backflow. We use rolled threads to help prevent stripping during installation or removal and an internally lubricated gasket provides a positive seal even after the filter has been removed and reinstalled.
K&N Diesel Truck and SUV Oil Filters

K&N Diesel Truck and SUV Oil Filters

How to change an o2 or oxygen sensor

Twelve years and more than 100,000 miles have passed under your trusty commuter and the Check Engine light has never, ever, winked at you … until yesterday, when it coincidentally anticipated your state inspection appointment at the end of the month. Rats! The car will never pass the emissions test with that light on. Now what?

Here’s the perfect opportunity to break out that new, easy-to-use, consumer-grade OBD II (On-Board Diagnostics II) generic code reader. That’s what we did on our sacrificial lamb, a Nissan Altima. After plugging in the universal connector under the dash, we retrieved a code P0136 “O2 Sensor
Circuit Malfunction (Sensor 2).” This let us zero in on the likely problem right away. Remember, a trouble code stored in the engine computer doesn’t necessarily tell you what’s wrong. It’s just a good starting point.

So, it’s time to actually check out the sensor. Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor, in the catalytic converter, smack in the middle of the underside of the car. Start by getting the car up on some safety stands, then roll underneath it with a creeper.

Lazy O2 Sensor Equals Low MPG
OBD I engine management, dating back to 1980, used just one upstream O2 sensor, mounted in the exhaust manifold, as close as possible to the cylinder head’s heat. That was because an oxygen sensor can’t produce and send the rapidly toggling voltage signal the engine computer is expecting until the sensor is really hot (above 600 F). That’s why today all O2 sensors are electrically heated — so they will start working sooner.

It’s always the upstream sensor (“Bank 1, Sensor 1”) that the powertrain management system pays attention to in order to fine-tune the proper 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio (aka lambda). Lambda is the Greek character used to designate that perfect stoichiometric ratio. And although the modern oxygen sensor has a 100,000-mile life expectancy, when it gets old and lazy you’ll begin to notice a drop in fuel economy. More extreme cases of malfunction will lead to driveability issues and, eventually, to an illuminated Check Engine light when the frequency of the sensor’s signal slows to a crawl.

Rules of Thumb
It is possible to do some simple checks on O2 sensors with a high-impedance digital voltohmmeter. You don’t necessarily need a professional technician’s scan tool. But to perform specific test procedures, it definitely helps to have the service manual for your vehicle. Some manuals, for example, give simple static resistance measurements across the sensor’s terminals. These alone may not be conclusive.

Do a dynamic test. Determine the frequency at which a good sensor is supposed to toggle back and forth from 0 to 1 volt while the engine is being revved. A general rule of thumb says the sensor should toggle two to three times per second at 2500 rpm. There are variations: ­Nissan says the rear heated oxygen sensor we replaced should read above 0.6 volt at least once while racing the engine up to 4000 rpm (under no load). Your service ­manual will have the specifics for your vehicle.

Or, you can just replace your O2 sensor(s) at regular intervals, to try and prevent that minor drop in mpg sometimes caused by a “lazy” high-mileage sensor

Simple Replacement
Our problem was obvious once we got under the car. The sensor’s harness had snagged on some road debris or, more likely, high-centered on a pile of ice here in New York last winter. With the harness dangling in the breeze, not connected to anything, it’s no wonder the Check Engine light was on.

But instead of just fixing the harness, we chose to go with a new $100 sensor. Its fresh electrical connector brought peace of mind. Besides, the old unit had been in service for 104,000 miles, so it was due for replacement. Despite the rust caked around the sensor’s mount, a good yank with an open-end wrench was all it took to break it loose.

We got lucky, because this O2 Sensor
was easy to get at. More often than not, you’ll need to acquire one of the specially slotted oxygen sensor sockets, available wherever mechanic’s tools are sold. The slot in the side of these sockets enables easy ­removal and installation, even in cramped engine compartments, and protects the sensor’s wire leads.

Finally, after the sensor fix and a certain amount of driving and key cycling, we were waiting for the Altima’s Check Engine light to go out by itself. It didn’t. So we had to diagnose a little further. At last, we found two weak engine grounds. Their terminals had oxidized slightly on the aluminum intake manifold and were causing enough of a voltage drop in the ground side of the sensor circuit to keep the engine computer on guard. This caused two additional codes to store in the system along with the O2 sensor code. Ultimately, loosening and retightening the two ground strap bolts allowed us to clear all the codes from ­memory. The Check Engine light blinked off and the car passed its emissions test with flying colors.

1] Sometimes you get lucky: The old sensor unscrewed easily.

2] A sparing dollop of anti­seize will make the next removal easier. New sensors already have some on the threads.

3] Thread the new harness back into the body of the car. Make sure the grommet seals out road dirt and water. Use cable ties to keep the harness tucked out of the way.

Changing brakes on a nissan with video

Changing rear brakes
on a nissan, toyota or any other vehicle usually follows the same procedure. The procedure in this video was performed on an isuzu rodeo and the brake
job is pretty straight forward. Rear brake
pads are easy to change and if you do it yourself you can save some money by not taking it to the repair shop. Here at The Wright Import we only use full ceramic brake pads. They are a little more expensive but in the long run they will save you money in wear and tear on your rotors. Full ceramic brake
pads are made up of a softer material than the metallic pads and they are alot easier on your rotors. We recommend Akebono brake pads when we change brake pads for our customers

Monday, July 27, 2009

On a Nissan Maxima which O2 sensor is Bank 2 Sensor 1
Bank 1 Sensor 1: Located on rear exhaust manifold pipe nearest the firewall. Fairly easy to remove with the right tools. Clip located on left side of engine compartment.
Bank 1 Sensor 2: Located just behind the Catalytic Converter. Very easy to remove and clips on just inside rubber grommet.
Bank 2 Sensor 1: Located on front exhaust manifold pipe nearest the radiator. Hard to reach without specific tools. Clip located in front of engine compartment.


Bank 1 = both front firewall-side sensor (1) AND rear sensor (2). Bank 2 = front radiator-side sensor (1). Bank one refers to the section of the manifold that vents exhaust from the cylinder bank including cylinder two = from cylinder #2 and its comrades.
I hope this has answered any question about the O2 sensor on a Nissan Maxima

How to Bench Bleed a Master Cylinder in a Nissan Maxima
The Nissan Maxima is a stylish yet practical car that has been around since 1982, when Datsun began its conversion into Nissan. When you replace the brake master cylinder in a Nissan Maxima, it's wise to bench bleed the new one before installing it to ensure there isn't any air in the system. The process only takes about 10 minutes. These steps are applicable to a Nissan Maxima from any year.
  1. 1

    Remove your old master cylinder before you bench bleed and install the new one. The brake master cylinder of a Nissan Maxima is generally located up against the driver's side firewall, next to the strut tower. This differs slightly between models, so just look for the brake fluid reservoir to find the master cylinder. You may have to remove the air tube to access the cylinder on later models.

  2. Step 2

    Set your new Nissan Maxima master cylinder in a bench vise; if you don't have a bench vise, you can use a clamp-on vise and an old table. Clamp the cylinder firmly into place, making sure that it's level. Open up the bench bleed kit and have it close by.

  3. Step 3

    Put the old reservoir into the new master cylinder, if you're reusing it. Be sure you dry off the reservoir completely, since brake fluid absorbs water and can damage your brake system, and then install it into the top of the new master cylinder. If a reservoir came with your new Nissan Maxima master cylinder, you can skip this step.

  4. Step 4

    Find the two fittings that came with your bleeder kit. Thread them onto the outlets located on the cylinder; if you're not sure where they are, look on the top and sides of the cylinder for threaded outlet holes.

  5. Step 5

    Take the two lengths of hose that came with your kit and insert them into the fittings. Bend the hoses up, so they're aimed into the fluid reservoir.

  6. Step 6

    Cut the hoses if necessary. They should stick point-down into the reservoir and extend about halfway into it. Use a clip to secure the tubes to the side of the reservoir and keep them in place. You don't want them to come loose and allow air into the system or spray brake fluid around.

  7. Step 7

    Fill the Nissan Maxima's reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Pour enough of it into the reservoir to fill it just shy of the maximum fill line. The plastic hoses will extend down into the fluid, creating a closed hydraulic system.

  8. Step 8

    Pump the piston on the brake master cylinder to move the fluid through the unit and into the hoses. Use a Phillips screwdriver to do this; put the screwdriver into the cylinder and push it firmly against the piston to start pumping.

  9. Step 9

    Watch for air bubbles coming out of the hoses and into the fluid in the reservoir. Keep pumping until all the air is out of the cylinder and you don't see any more bubbles. Consider buying clear hoses, if the ones that come with your kit are black, so you can see the air bubbles better.

  10. Step 10

    Leave the two hoses in the reservoir and slowly remove the cylinder from the vise. You can now install the primed master cylinder into your Nissan Maxima.

Toyota Prius review

2010 Toyota Prius

2010 Toyota Prius

Since the debut of the second-generation Toyota Prius in 2003, the quintessential gas-electric hybrid has risen from a niche product to become Toyota’s third-best-selling model in the United States. The car inspires a cult-like devotion from its drivers. Satisfaction rates, consistently at about 98 percent, are unparalleled.

The third-generation 2010 Toyota Prius, officially unveiled at the Detroit auto show in January 2009, went on sale in April. The updated Prius is bigger and more powerful. The engine grew from 1.5 liters to 1.8 liters—giving a boost in horsepower from 110 to 160, and thereby reducing zero-to-60 time by a full second. In addition, the body is about four inches longer and about an inch wider. Despite the added power and size, the 2010 Toyota Prius becomes the only vehicle available today to offer 50 miles per gallon in combined city/highway driving.

Fifty of the world's most die-hard Prius fans literally threw themselves at the 2010 Toyota Prius. Toyota threw a party for the Prius devotees on the night of the Detroit Auto Show when the third-generation model was unveiled.

Toyota achieved this level of fuel efficiency by keeping the vehicle’s weight down, maintaining the best aerodynamics of any production vehicle in the world, and re-engineering the powertrain to extend the range of all-electric gas-free driving. (Despite rumors over the past year, the new Prius does not offer plug-in capabilities and continues to use nickel metal hydride batteries, rather than switching to lithium ion batteries.)

Prius Exterior

Toyota added a slightly sportier feel and more aggressive stance to the 2010 Prius—perhaps to disarm criticism that the Prius looks like a corrective appliance on wheels. The logo shifts from the hood to the top of the point of the grille. The crease in the doors has shifted lower, but a more pronounced angle is added above the door handles. The overall effect is to make the 2010 Prius stand taller—not as rounded and squat—as its predecessor.

The distinct space-age shape of the Prius is still apparent: a deliberate effort by Toyota to maintain the Prius’s essential and iconic appearance. Its large, diamond-cut headlamps and snub-nose front-end are the starting point for the Prius’s quasi-flying saucer appearance. The angled hood seamlessly flows into the windshield, then to a flowing roofline that is sleek and low. Short overhangs and a sawed-off rear section finish off the hybrid’s futuristic hatchback character.

Of course, beauty is subjective, so the Prius continues to receive mixed reviews on outward show. There are many who think the Prius looks gimmicky, if not entirely ugly. But for many hybrid owners, the distinctive look of the Prius sends a message, which declares that we must take steps to reduce our voracious thirst for oil—with all its negative consequences in terms of the environment and geo-politics. For this camp, the Prius is like a middle-finger-on-wheels aimed at Hummers, Suburbans, Escalades, and the like.

In 2006, the toy and game-maker Hasbro added a game token in the shape of the Toyota Prius to the “here and now” version of Monopoly. In other words, the Prius is an official icon of our times.

Bells and Whistles

The previous Prius had loads of gizmos—including keyless entry, joystick shifter, high-tech energy monitor, and a rear-view camera system. Toyota throws even more technology at the new model.

For the first time, the Prius offers a moonroof and heated seats. The sliding glass moonroof, packaged with a slick-looking solar panel, provides power to a new ventilation system that doesn’t require help from the gas engine. Not only does the AC system keep the interior air temperature from heating up when the vehicle is parked (thus reducing the time/energy needed to cool things down), the system can be operated remotely to heat or cool the cabin before getting into the car. (That’s a neat trick even if the rooftop solar panels don’t produce enough energy to power the wheels.)

Three driving modes are now available: Power, Economy and EV. Power improves throttle response; economy reduces throttle response for better gas mileage; and with a flip of the dashboard EV button, the car can go about one mile at low speeds without using any gasoline.

An optional radar system using advanced millimeter waves enables “Lane Keep Assist” to help the driver stay safely within the lane, and the “Pre-Collision System” retracts seatbelts and applies the brakes in certain conditions when a crash is unavoidable. Intelligent parking offers settings to help guide the Prius into parking spaces. A backup monitor, which provides a view of rear obstacles when reverse is engaged, is available with an optional voice-activated navigation system.

The new touch sensor system on the steering wheel helps keep the driver’s eyes on the road. Images of the switches and their positions are shown on the instrument panel directly in front.

Prius Interior

The past success of the Toyota Prius has been its ability to combine great fuel efficiency and utter practicality. Five adults can fit comfortably, with more than 16 cubic feet of cargo room left over in back. The 60/40 split rear seats also can be folded flat, creating a surprisingly large cargo space for hauling groceries, strollers, large boxes, and gardening supplies—all at the same time.

Short and tall drivers should feel equally comfortable behind the wheel. The back seat is roomy, beating the Toyota Camry by a few inches and providing a little more legroom than the Civic Hybrid—and a lot more than found in the Honda Insight.

Interior storage spaces are abundant and flexible. The sound system is adequate, but not groundbreaking compared to other cars in this class. The stereo's most-used functions are easy to see, read and use. Many of the Prius’s standard features are either optional or unavailable on comparably priced competitive vehicles.

Some Prius drivers complain that the hatchback design limits the visibility through the rear window. They refer to this drawback as the "Prius blind spot."

You have to take a test drive to see how it feels to you. The new generation's rear view has improved a bit, even if the backseat headrests and spoiler continue to partially obstruct the view. Hatchback visibility makes some people crazy and is a non-issue for others. Take a test drive to see what you think.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Akebono brake pads

Akebono Brake Pad

Akebono Brakes

  • Brake vibration and noise can be significantly reduced with Akebono brakes
  • If you're tired of the dust and noise from cheap brakes, upgrade to Akebono friction materials
  • You don't have to sacrifice your rotors to achieve good stopping when you select Akebono brakes
  • By carefully combining organic and metallic brake compounds, Akebono brakes can provide short stopping distances without increased rotor wear

Akebono Brakes

Your vehicle's brakes are one of the main trouble spots as far as noise, vibration, and harshness are concerned, and Akebono brakes intend to do something about it. Between the clamping forces on the rotor, the movement of the pads in the caliper, and even the runout of the disc, your non Akebono brakes instill some unpleasant resonances into your vehicle's structure. Since reducing noise, vibration, and harshness is a huge priority for vehicle manufacturers, Akebono brakes has teamed up with the OEM manufacturers on a number of cutting-edge hardware projects and developed new Akebono brakes that seriously reduce the amount of NVH induced by calipers, rotors, and drums. As a result, the OEMs love Akebono brakes, but you don't have to buy a brand new car to get Akebono brakes on your car too. Retrofit Akebono brakes make a great choice if you have an older high-performance car that just doesn't have the kind of braking performance you're accustomed to, and has high NVH levels too. The addition of Akebono brakes along with Akebono brake friction materials can provide the stellar combination of stopping power and quiet operation that you've been seeking. Best of all, Akebono brakes aren't priced into the stratosphere like some of the competitors, so for a performance value, be sure to explore Akebono brakes for your ride of choice.

Akebono Brake Pad

There's a Holy Grail in brake pads, and the Akebono brake pad seems to have found it. We're talking about high friction with low rotor wear—two apparently mutually exclusive design goals, or so everyone thought. But with an Akebono brake pad, you can achieve exceptional stopping distances in an organic pad that actually has a minimal amount of abrasive metallic material in the compound. So, it stands to reason that an Akebono brake pad lasts about forty miles, right? Wrong. In test after test, the Akebono brake pad had as good or better wear characteristics than the premium semi-metallic competitor, proving the Akebono brake pad was both stable in high heat situations and that it could maintain its friction characteristics mile after mile. All right, then, the Akebono brake pad must generate dust like a volcano. Nope, wrong again. The Akebono brake pad actually has an extraordinarily low dust production rate—it would be low for a stock pad, but the Akebono brake pad has truly exceptional dust generation for a high-performance friction component. With all these extraordinary features, it stands to reason that the Akebono brake pad would sell itself. But just in case it doesn't, we're here to tell you that if you want new friction materials that seem to defy the laws of physics, you'll love having an Akebono brake pad set on your vehicle.

Customer satisfaction drives everything we do

Friction Materials
Brake Products
Engineering and Technical Support

Leveraging our definitive noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) technology, Akebono develops, tests and manufactures a range of advanced automotive brake friction materials and components that meets the needs of OEMs and drivers throughout North America.

Our growing commitment to the North American automotive industry is best illustrated by our world-class R&D facilities, combined with a relentless focus on quality and unmatched manufacturing capabilities. Together, these enable us to provide products that meet the diverse performance requirements of today's vehicles. Customer satisfaction drives everything we do.

you'll love having an Akebono brake pad set on your vehicle.