Thursday, September 25, 2008

Replacing the window regulator on Grand Cherokee

Replacing the window regulator in a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee is a fairly straight forward process. Removing the door panel is probably going to be the hardest part of the process as some of the clips can be stubborn and you want to be careful so as not to break any of them. That is Troy to the left removing the door lining so he can get to the hardware.
Once you have the door panel off and the lining removed, you can easily access the nuts and bolts that mount the regulator to the door. On this particular vehicle, the regulator and motor are one assembly. So the cost of the parts are a little higher than if you only had to purchase the regulator. There are only a few bolts holding the regulator in place so once you get the panels and lining off, the job moves along very quickly. Troy did this job in about 30 minutes, but keep in mind that he is a serious tech that takes pride in his work. He has a true passion for what he does and it reflects on every vehicle he touches.
Step by step Instructions:
1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near the rear view mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)

2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at t
he bottom of the door in a corner

3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror c
able, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)

4. Remove the plastic cover This one had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re-use it.

5. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.

6. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and problem.

7. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.

8. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)

9. Remove screws th
at hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.

10. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position.Then patiently feed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.

11. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator.

This is not really a very complicated job, but it will require a little patience. Notice the old regulator to the left. It doesn't really look like much but this piece, when broken can cause a mountain of headaches. Though most regulators can be purchased without the motor, this one for the Jeep Cherokee can not. You must purchase this as one unit, and depending on where you buy your parts, it can be a little pricey.

Changing a Timing belt on a 1999 nissan Pathfider

Your 1999 Nissan Path Finder is starting to show a bit of wear and tear, but everything mechanical still works fine. Until it doesn't. Specifically, the engine suddenly goes dead silent one fine day. Your mechanic says your timing belt failed, now you will be charged for the tow, the belt replacement and a valve job, because there's no compression on two cylinders. You're one of the unfortunates with an "interference engine" — an engine that can leave one or more valves still propped open far enough to contact a piston when the belt parts. Sadly, sales brochures don't list whether an engine might suffer catastrophic damage if the belt goes.
You probably could have avoided this particular bit of unpleasantness with timely maintenance. It's best to replace the timing belt according to your carmaker's recommended schedule. For the record, many engines — like those in more expensive models — still use timing chains, rather than belts, like they did back in the day before the popularity of overhead camshafts. Unlike belts, timing chains usually don't have a routine replacement interval.
The timing belt (or chain) is the sole component that keeps the camshaft (make that camshafts on a DOHC or V-type OHC engine) and crankshaft in sync. So replacing this cogged reinforced-rubber belt at regular intervals — generally every 60,000 miles unless the car manufacturer specifies longer — is a lot less expensive and aggravating than having it break first. For your car's maintenance schedule, consult the owner's manual, Alldata, or the belt manufacturer's poster hanging on the wall at your favorite parts store.

Though you may spend only a few minutes replacing the timing belt itself, it can take an hour or more to dig down through the spaghetti of hoses, wiring and covers found in a modern engine bay. We even had to disconnect and cap a pair of fuel lines when we did the job on this Path finder.

We cannot stress this enough: Be careful! Make sure you know where the timing marks are on your engine, and that you have them set up properly with No. 1 cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke before attempting to replace the timing belt.

Why? 1) That interference engine thing again; and 2) Every camshaft and crankshaft on planet Earth is indexed to No. 1 TDC. If you try to remove and replace the timing in any other position, chances are good you'll throw things out of time. Then you'll get confused and have to pull off the valve cover as you try to determine when No. 1's valves are closed (which begins the compression stroke) in order to re-index the engine. Get your marks lined up right the first time.After you remove the top section of the timing belt cover, you should see a timing mark on the camshaft sprocket — this mark usually lines up with the edge of the cylinder head or valve cover.        

Replacing the water pump while you have everything apart is always a good idea, although convincing the customer might be a whole other issue. For the crankshaft below, there probably will be a timing mark on the damper pulley that lines up with another mark on the lower cover. Or, the service manual may direct you to the transmission end of the engine to look through a hole in the bell housing for a timing mark on the flywheel. The flywheel is bolted to the other (transmission) end of the crankshaft. On some vehicles, you may find these marks in all three places.

Just remove the rest of the timing belt cover sections and turn your attention to the tensioner pulley mechanism.
This tensioner may be an automatic hydraulic type that you simply crank in one direction to remove the old timing belt. Or, you may have to loosen the tensioner pulley adjustment bolt to release the tension and the belt. Before proceeding, confirm which way the engine rotates during normal operation. (Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse first if you need to disconnect fuel lines the way we did. Don't ask how we found this out. We're still getting the gasoline smell out of our coveralls.) Knowing which way the engine turns is important for checking the new belt's alignment later; you don't want to be off by a tooth on one of the sprockets. The easiest way is to have a helper bump over the starter motor with the ignition key while you watch the engine. Of course, now you'll have to reset your timing marks by hand. Don't rotate the engine backward to the marks. Crank it around forward to maintain the correct tension and to keep the belt from jumping teeth.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Honda Civic a/c will not work

Honda Civic a/c will not work

VEHICLE: 2002 Honda Civic LX 1.7L, L4, MFI, SOHC, VIN -, Eng Desg D17A1, Eng Version N/R, 1700 CC

MILEAGE: 113000

Customer Concern: The A/C compressor will not operate. Also, the scan tool does not indicate that there is any A/C request.