How do i know if the shock, shocks are bad on my Lexus

When it comes to Lexus shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their vehicle do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to:

1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.

2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.

3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.
I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Lexus at all.

The same principle applies for strut suspension.

1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Lexus and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.

2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)

3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.

4)On rough roads does your vehicle shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.

5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil, if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Lexus failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your vehicle. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Lexus is very important to the handling and tire wear on your vehicle.

How do i know if the shock, shocks are bad on my Hyundai

When it comes to Hyundai shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their Hyundai do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to:

 1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.

2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.

3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.

I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Hyundai at all. The same principle applies for strut suspension.
1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Hyundai and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.

2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)

3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.

4)On rough roads does your vehicle shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.

5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil, if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Hyundai failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your vehicle. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Hyundai is very important to the handling and tire wear on any Hyundai.

How do i know if the shock, shocks are bad on my Toyota

When it comes to Toyota shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their vehicle do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to:

1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.

2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.

3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.

I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Toyota at all. The same principle applies for strut suspension.

1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Toyota and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.

2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)

3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.

4)On rough roads does your Toyota shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.

5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil, if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Toyota failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your Toyota. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s, Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Toyota is very important to the handling and tire wear on any Toyota.

How do I know if the shocks on my nissan are bad

When it comes to Nissan shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their vehicle do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to: 1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.
2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.
3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.
I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Nissan at all. The same principle applies for strut suspension.
1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Nissan and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.
2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)
3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.
4)On rough roads does your vehicle shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.
5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil,if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Nissan failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your vehicle. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Nissan is very important to the handling and tire wear on any Nissan. If you have any questions, please post them here or contact me at thewrightimport@gmail.com

How do I check my Brake fluid

The brake fluid reservoir is usually located on the top of the engine in front of the steering column (on the engine side of the firewall). Many reservoirs have the fluid level indicator on the side. Check the fluid level. Read your owner’s manual to determine the proper fluid to add. Add fluid if needed. If level seems exceptionally low to you, you may have a brake issue occurring. We recommend you take the vehicle to a repair center for inspection.

**INSTALLATION OF THE WRONG FLUID COULD RESULT IN SEVERE DAMAGE TO THE BRAKING SYSTEM. SUCH AS, ALL OF THE RUBBER IN THE BRAKING SYSTEM SWELLING UP AND CAUSING THE BRAKES TO SUDDENLY LOCK UP IN MOTION***

BRAKE INSPECTION:

When getting your brakes inspected at a repair center tell them to tell you how much material is left by 32nd not by percents. Pads and shoes are not standard, thus making it virtually impossible to know what percent they really are.

EXAMPLE:

A pad that starts at 12/32 and is now 6/32 has “50” percent left, but what if that pad started at 14/32 (this pad only has 42 percent left), or if it starts at 10/32 (this pad has 60 percent left).

It is virtually impossible to know what the pads started at, so it is virtually impossible to know what the percent was / is.

When your pads are down between 2/32 and 3/32 you should replace them.

Brake shoes tend to start at 3/32.

Remember you have pads on the front and rear side of each rotor. A proper brake inspection will tell you the 32nd for all the pads.

BRAKE FLUID FLUSH:

We use FASCAR test strips to tell you the condition of you brake fluid. We will show you the test strip and the fascar scale to help you understand the test.

Contaminated / broken down fluid does not offer proper lubrication / cushioning for brake parts and may lead to early failure of braking components.

Can I use a Brake Strip to test my own brake fluid?
To be able to test your own brake fluid you must be able to find the master cylinder. In today's cars sometimes this is more difficult then you would think. The master cylinder cap should be identifies with the writing 'DOT 3 Brake fluid only' or DOT 4 Brake fluid only'. Contact your local Autozone store. You can also request a test from your local service facility. Remember this is new, so he may not be up-to-speed yet on this new technology.
What do I do if my shop tries to sell me a brake flush based on color, moisture or time/mileage?

Realize that most automotive service facilities are honest and trying to do the right thing for you and your vehicle. In most cases, unnecessary brake fluid replacement recommendations are based on color, time/mileage, moisture or boiling point and are not intentionally to deceive you. It is more likely they are not aware of the new MAP standard or FASCAR technology.**Testing for copper NOT water**


Color - If your shop recommends brake fluid replacement based on color, it is likely that he is just following 'tradition'. It has been determined by brake fluid manufacturers and experts that you cannot tell brake fluid condition by color. There is no science or standard to justify brake fluid replacement based on color or it 'looks dirty'. One common tactic is to show a sample of new fluid compared to a sample of your fluid. Again there is no basis or foundation that the 'color' means the fluid should be replaced. Please be patient, the shop is not likely trying to intentionally deceive you, and they may not be informed on this new technology. The only justifiable reason to suggest replacement based on color is if the standard brake fluid has been replaced with the wrong fluid and the fluid is red or purple in color.

Moisture - A recommendation based on moisture also falls into the same category as color. It has been a tradition. If the shop uses a boiling point tester and tells you that your brake fluid has a low boiling point, realize there is no standard for 'used' brake fluid boiling point.
Time/Mileage - If your vehicle has O.E. (BMW, Mercedes...) brake fluid recommended maintenance based on time/mileage, your technician is following the MAP guideline. Many shops still use Brake Strip because it will help clarify service within maintenance parameters.
I failed a Brake Strip test soon after I had my brake fluid replaced?

Occasionally we hear this statement, 'they told me something must be wrong with the strip because they just changed my brake fluid'. FASCAR Brake Strips never gives a false reading. It tests for copper so there is no way to 'fake' the test.
The answer is very simple. There is still copper in the brake fluid. The problem is the type of brake flush that was performed. If they use vacuum, gravity or pedal flushing, they probably won't be able to properly flush the contamination out of the brake system.

WARNING:

FLUID FLUSHES ARE DESIGNED FOR PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE PURPOSES. THEY ARE MOST EFFECTIVE WHEN PERFORMED ON A REGULAR BASIS. WHEN SERVICE IS PERFORMED ON A NEGLECTED SYSTEM IT MAY LEAD TO LEAKAGE OR OTHER PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS. THIS IS A RESULT OF DAMAGE THAT IS ALREADY THERE. IT BECOMES NOTABLE AFTER A FLUID FLUSH BECAUSE A FLUSH REMOVES THE “GOO” / SEALER FROM THE SYSTEM. IF YOU HAVE A HOLE IN YOU SYSTEM THAT IS SEALED WITH GOO IT WILL OPEN AND YOU WILL SEE A LEAK AND / OR HAVE PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS.

THIS IS THE FAULT OF NEGLECT; NOT THE FAULT OF THE CENTER FLUSHING YOUR SYSTEM.

Change your own drive, serpentine belt

Do you remember the screams of protest when serpentine belts were dumped on us by the automobile industry? One broken belt and everything's dead? They are an absolute nightmare to replace? They cost a fortune? Now we wonder why they weren't invented sooner. The old "fan" belts were a pain
to replace and tension. Slippage from being too loose was annoyingly common and any one of them would leave you just as stranded when broken.

First of all, do you have a serpentine belt and does it need replacing? A serpentine belt is much wider than the conventional "v" belts and it will have a number of ribs on the inside edge. It will have the distinction of being the only belt under the hood. Don't be alarmed if it has a few cracks on the inside edge. Once these cracks occur in 1/8 inch intervals, it's time for a "pre-emptive transplant".

If your vehicle uses a serpentine belt with five ribs, don't settle for a four rib replacement (even though it will fit and work). Some cheaper brands will consolidate several lengths to reduce inventory and part numbers. It may be wise to pay for a name brand or dealer replacement for the simple reason of getting a better fit.

The single most important step to replace a serpentine belt is to ensure you know the path of the belt BEFORE you remove it. It looks easy to remember but trust me, when the belt is off, it's easy for uncertainty to creep in. The vehicle will have a diagram under the hood. Make sure it's not missing. Make a sketch of the path either in a notebook or in chalk on the shop floor. Better yet, take a couple photos with your digital camera.
Gone are the days of searching for which of those grease encased bolts loosens the belt, prying until your eyes bulge to apply tension and simultaneously re-tighten the bolts. And then do it all over again after determining the belt is now either too loose or tight. These fond memories
can now be left to restoration and vintage car projects. All serpentine belt equipped vehicles will have a tensioner wheel. Whether it's a bolt, hex, or torx fastener, applying quite a bit of force (often 80 pounds or more) in a counter clockwise direction is standard. Just slip the belt off the handiest pulley and release the tensioner.

Before installing the new belt you should check the condition and alignment of the pulleys. They may be out of alignment diagonally (crooked) or parallel to each other. Either situation may have caused premature wear of your belt and will have to be remedied. In some cases, washers can be used as shims, but replacement of the component is often required. Carefully check each pulley for nicks or sharp edges. The tensioner wheel itself is a common source of failure. Make sure that it works and that it spins freely and quietly. There will be at least one idler wheel, which should also spin without noise or sideways movement. The idler wheel is normally smooth and will allow the belt to slip off if it's in poor condition. The bearings on these devices endure a punishing life and will wear out. So do the bearings on the alternator, air conditioning compressor and water pump. Grease and oil are a death sentence to any belt. If it exists anywhere on the serpentine belt path is must be cleaned. Just as importantly, the source must be isolated and fixed.

To install the new belt, start at the lowest pulley and work upwards toward the tensioner wheel. Be extremely careful to avoid dragging the new belt through grease and dirt. Make certain the ribs on the belt align perfectly to the grooves on each pulley. A mistake here will doom your new belt to a premature death. Finally, pull back on the tensioner and slip the belt on. Strictly avoid releasing the tensioner with fingers between the belt and a pulley. Most tension wheels will have indicator marks. Make sure the new belt is within the min and max. ranges. One last thing to check: the new belt will fit tighter and will follow a slightly different path than the old one. Ensure the belt has a clear route to follow. Once in awhile a loose bolt or bent piece of tin will interfere.

Before throwing the old belt out, strongly consider keeping it in your emergency toolbox (assuming you've replaced the belt before it exploded into shreds). A spare belt might really save your day in the future. Or, you can sell it for a small fortune to a less prepared motorist in the middle of nowhere. Just kidding of course.

How do I change my vehicle's battery

Most people can change their own car battery. The most difficult part of changing your batter will be lifting it out of the vehicle once you have disconnected the battery terminals, primarily because it weighs so much. By following these simple steps, you will be able to change your own battery no matter where you are.

In order to change your battery you will need battery cleaning solution, anti-corrosion solution, a socket and ratchet, a combination wrench, a wire brush, a new battery, and a screwdriver.

1) Turn off your engine, lift the hood, and locate the battery. Take off the negative (black) battery cable first by loosening the connecting nut with a wrench. Twist and pull the battery cable off of the battery with upwards motion or pry it up with a tool or screwdriver if it is stuck.

2) Repeat this same method with the positive (red) cable.

3) Use a socket and ratchet or a combination wrench to remove the hold-down clamp on the battery, if one exists.

4) Remove the battery from the battery tray. Remember, batteries are very heavy, so hold onto the bottom with both hands. Set it down on the ground to ensure your safety and the safety of your vehicle.

5) Use a wire brush and water to clean away any corrosion from the hold-down clamp and the battery tray. Clean the battery cable connectors with the wire brush as well, but without the water or other liquid. If the connectors have heavy corrosion, you may use a special battery-cleaning solution that is available at most auto-parts stores.

6) Place a new battery in the battery tray and secure it with the hold-down clamp. Re-attach and tighten down the positive (red) battery cable first, then the negative. You may choose to spray the terminal ends with an optional anti-corrosion solution, which will prevent most corrosion collections. Check that the connection is tight, because if the cables move at all, the vehicle may not start.

Most car batteries have at least a 60-month warranty. If it fails within that time period, you can get it replaced for free.

Clean air filter is key to engine performance

Checking you air filter on a regular basis is key to engine performance. all vehicles have one and it is easy to check and or replace.
A clogged air filter affects your car's performance on a number of levels. It robs your car of power, something you need every ounce of when you're navigating a freeway on-ramp. Perhaps more important is the effect a clogged air filter has on your gas mileage. It takes 10 minutes and usually costs less than $20. These easy steps will get you there and back in no time flat.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 10 minutes
Here's How:

1. Locate and Open the Filter Housing
With your hood open and safely propped, locate the air filter housing. On any car made in the last 20 years or so, it'll be in a black plastic case with metal clips on the sides. You'll also see a black tube going into the plastic case on most cars. Flip the little metal clips downward. If they are tight, slide a flat-head screwdriver in between the clip and the case from the top, and pop it off. Some housings will also have a nut holding them from the top.
2. Squirrel Your Nuts
If you removed nuts from the top of your filter housing, be sure to put them in a safe secure location. You don't want to lose these! In the vehicle used in our example, the top of the filter housing comes off, so we put them in the housing top where they couldn't roll away. You can even stick them in your pocket. Whatever you do, put them someplace safe.
3. Remove the Old Filter
Your filter (round or rectangular) will be made of lots of folded paper surrounded by rubber. Before you remove the dirty filter, take a moment to note how it sits in the housing so you can be sure to put the new one in correctly. Carefully pull it out, being sure that nothing falls into the bottom of the box. I've seen sticks, trash and some really big bugs caught in the filter. If it looks anything like the filter in the above photo, you know you're doing the right thing.
4. Put the New Filter in Place
Put the new, clean filter in place, being sure to put it in the same configuration as the one you removed (as in which side is up, etc.). Don't worry about making a mistake here, if you have the filter in upside down you won't be able to get the top closed. Also be sure to press the rubber gasket of the filter all the way into its groove in the housing. If you find the cover hard to get back on, re-check this as it's often the culprit.
5. Empowerment!
That's it! You just saved money on gas, and saved a nice bit of cash by installing the air filter yourself.

Automotive preventive maintenance is key to engine and vehicle performance

Reasons to perform routine Preventive Maintenance on your vehicle

Preventive Maintenance is a schedule of planned maintenance actions aimed at the prevention of breakdowns and failures. The primary goal of preventive maintenance is to help prolong the life of the vehicle and reduce vehicle failures therefore providing a worry free driving experience. Automotive technicians say the key to keeping vehicles running well today and down the road, is routine preventive maintenance. Many drivers tend to stall when it comes to keeping up with some everyday automotive basics. Maintenance

A recent survey by the Car Care Council found:

* 38 percent of cars had low or dirty engine oil.
* 54 percent had low tire pressure.
* 28 percent had inadequate cooling protection.
* 19 percent needed new belts.
* 16 percent had dirty air filters.
* 10 percent had low or contaminated brake fluid.
Some of the most important preventive maintenance steps you can do yourself and save you some time and money. Here is a quick list of some of the most common preventive maintenance steps that you should be able to handle yourself.
Airfilter: Check it every month. Replace it when it becomes dirty or as part of a tune -up. It is easy to reach, right under the big metal 'lid', in a carbureted engine; or in a rectangular box at the forward end of the air in a duct hose assembly.
Battery: Extreme caution should be taken while handling a battery since it can produce explosive gases. It is advisable not to smoke, create a spark or light a match near a battery. Always wear protective glasses and gloves.
Belts: Inspect belts and hoses smoothly. Replace glazed, worn or frayed belts. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Brake Fluid: Check the brake fluid monthly. First wipe dirt from the brake master cylinder reservoir lid. Pry off the retainer clip and remove the lid or unscrew the plastic lid, depending on which type your vehicle has. If you need fluid, add the improved type and check for possible leaks throughout the system. Do not overfill.
Engine Oil; Check the oil after every fill up. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean. Insert it fully and remove it again. If it is low, add oil. To maintain peak performance, the oil should be changed every 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Replace the oil filter with every oil change.
Exhaust: Look underneath for loose or broken exhaust clamps and supports. Check for holes in muffler or pipes. Replace the rusted or damaged parts. Have the emission checked at once per year for compliance with local laws.
Hoses: Inspect the hoses and belts monthly. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Lights: Make sure that all your lights are clean and working, including the brake lights, turn signals and emergency flashers. Keep spare bulbs and fuses in your vehicle.
Oil Filter: To maintain peak performance, change oil every 3 months or 3,000 kms whichever comes first. Replace oil filter with every oil change.
Power Steering Fluid: Check the power steering fluid level once per month. Check it by removing the reservoir dipstick. If the level is down, add fluid and inspect the pump and hoses for leaks.
Shock Absorbers: Look for signs of oil seepage on shock absorbers, test shock action by bouncing the car up and down. The car should stop bouncing when you step back. Worn or leaking shocks should be replaced. Always replace shock absorbers in pairs.
Tires: Keep tires inflated to recommended pressure. Check for cuts, bulges and excessive tread wear. Uneven wear indicates tires are misaligned or out of balance.
Transmission Fluid: Check transmission fluid monthly with engine warm and running, and the parking brake on. Shift to drive, then to park. Remove dipstick, wipe dry, insert it and remove it again. Add the approved type fluid, if needed. Never overfill.
Washer Fluid: Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir full. Use some of it to clean off the wiper blades.
Wiper Blades: Inspect the windscreen wiper blades whenever you clean your windshield. Do not wait until the rubber is worn or brittle to replace them. They should be replaced at least once per year, and more often if smearing occurs. Remember, preventive maintenance is easy and you will benefit from it in the long run by saving yourself time and money at the repair shop.
Suspension
Spark plug wires
Exhaust and convertors
K&n oil and air filters
Oxygen or o2 sensor
Brakes
Step by step instructions on how to change your own spark plugs and wires
Keep your engine properly tuned
Isuzu suspension
Volvo suspension
Toyota suspension
Subaru suspension
Ford Suspension
Chevrolet suspension
When Should I replace my shocks and struts

How do I know when it is time for a tune up and how much should it cost

The first indication that it is time for a tune up is when gas mileage begins to worsen.
You should always keep running tabs that show the average miles per gallon your vehicle is achieving. You can check the average mileage that you are getting and if the figures have begun to drop 10-15% there is a good chance that your automobile would benefit from a little TLC at a garage.
Of course there are some additional signs that can give you clues that let you know if your car could use a tune-up. When you perform routine tune-ups on a vehicle you are rewarded with better mileage and performance, but sometimes some small adjustments can be needed in between scheduled maintenance visits.
There are other reasons besides a tune up that could be the cause of many automotive woes, but this procedure will often clear up minor problems and it is relatively inexpensive.
Here are some of the top problems that occur in cars that are begging for a tune-up:
Misfiring of the engine becomes more frequent
Unusually rough running, engine coughs and sputters
Fast Idling is noticeable, especially when the engine is warm
Low power is obvious, especially on hills or when accelerating
Rough idling can be felt by the driver and passengers
Engine pings and knocks
Black smoke from the exhaust pipe
Engine continues to run for a few seconds after the car is turned off
Engine hesitation
Problems starting the engine
Usually you will notice more than one of these signs, and the more of them that are present, the greater the chance that you should take your car in for a check up soon. Some people have cars that may occasionally exhibit one or two of these problems; this is not necessarily an indicator that a tune up is in order. It is when these types of automotive symptoms suddenly occur that the alarm buzzers go off.
If you have been driving a car that has always had a little engine ping that you are used to hearing it may be very normal. You can ask a mechanic to check it out for you, but if your vehicle has already had an extensive work up and it is tuned to perfection, another tune up will not be necessary. There are some automobiles that have idiosyncrasies and if the problem is not major then you should not become overly concerned.
Proper maintenance will keep your car running longer and stay in better shape.
you can easily see that when you call around for an estimate you can get some pretty dramatic price differences. Most larger shops and all dealers that I am aware of will charge an hourly price for each job that is listed in a shop hourly manual. For example your car tune up might have an estimated repair or replacement time of four hours in the shop manual. This time is calculated using the shop hourly rate {i.e., 4 x $60}. Pretty straight forward right? Not all the time.So what do you get for the four hours of labor? If you call my shop and ask for a car tune up price we automatically figure in the price a fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, PCV filter, and distributor ignition rotor plus all applicable labor charges. So my car tune up price would probably be much higher than a shop that only replaces spark plugs as their auto tune up package. You need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples when you are calling around for prices.Some shops that I know in my area purposely give low ball telephone estimates just to get you in the door. Example: You call to get a price for a new radiator installed. Does the estimate include new antifreeze, a new radiator cap and taxes? I would automatically figure these items in to my estimate, not only because I want to do a nice turn key job, but also I don't want to have to sell you parts later on that I already know you will need. For this reason, my phone estimates can be higher than some of my competitors, but your final bill might be lower. There are also different brands of shop manuals on the market, so the GM dealer would be using a different labor estimating guide than my shop and most independent shops would be using. Not only would these guides possibly give different replacement times, but they could also classify an auto tune up differently like in my example above. So the shop that you found only charged you for the time they actually spent working on the car? So is that a better deal? Maybe not, if all they did was replace spark plugs and call it a car tune-up. Just for grins you should call the dealer back and ask them how much they charge just for spark plugs. What if this shop has a slower mechanic, or deliberately takes longer to do the work just to rack up more time on the clock?On a different note, as a servicewriter, I would want to know why you are requesting a car tune up in the first place. What I have found is that if the car runs poorly or differently than normal, the customer often automatically asks for a car tune up. Cars of today are very sophisticated and full of computers and sensors that can cause your car to act strangely. So a tune up might not fix the problem, and a proper diagnosis from the mechanic could be beneficial

Replacing a head gasket is not for the beginner

Understanding why a relatively inexpensive head gasket costs so much to replace means first realizing what it sits between. In the engine block are pistons that travel up and down in cylinder bores. The pistons are connected to rods, which in turn are connected to a spinning crankshaft from which the vehicle takes its power. Bolted to the top of the engine is the cylinder head. Inside the cylinder head are valves that open and close to let air and fuel into the cylinders and expel the spent exhaust gas.
The head gasket is compressed between the engine block and the cylinder head. The head gasket seals in the internal combustion process and also keeps coolant and oil from mixing together as the two fluids travel from the engine block to the cylinder head. Head gaskets themselves are not very expensive. What ends up costing big money is getting to it. Removing and replacing the head gasket means undertaking the major operation of removing an engine's head. Boiling Over A head gasket can fail for a number of reasons, none of them good. Engine overheating is the most popular culprit. The metal of the engine block and head expands beyond limits during overheating. This expansion can pinch the head gasket to the point where it will fail. The next major causes of head gasket failure are engine pre-ignition or detonation. The crux of these two conditions is out-of-time combustion occurring in the cylinders. Internal combustion is supposed to occur with both valves closed and with the piston at the top of its power stroke. Out of time combustion puts extra strain on the valves, pistons, and head gasket. Ironically, engine overheating can also increase the likelihood of pre-ignition and detonation. The sound of an engine pinging or knocking is the insidious sound of damage. Head Surgery Head gasket replacement is not a job for the average do-it-yourselfer. While a head gasket expiring due to old age is rare, it usually means everything else is worn out to the point of replacement as well. Cracking the head off the engine and peering inside may reveal that everything else got fully cooked, too. The best way to prevent head gasket failure is to keep the cooling system in top working order and make sure the engine is in tune and running correctly. The failure of a $5 thermostat or $3 coolant hose can cause thousands of dollars in engine damage in a hurry. The following are a few general tips for replacing a head gasket. For vehicle specific head gasket replacement procedures always consult a service manual.
Step 1 - Getting down to the head gasket can be an involved process. Always mark and index everything before removal. In this case, it was easier to remove the exhaust manifold, head, and intake as a unit. A service manual is the first and most important tool in the toolbox.
Step 2 - Check the head and block for flatness. A machined straight edge across the surface and feeler gauge will reveal all. The service manual will provide specifications. Blocks or heads out of specification must be sent out to the machine shop and be repaired. The machine shop will also be able to check for cracks.
Step 3 - Prepare the surface. Never use anything that will remove metal. Be careful not to scratch the deck of the block or mounting surface of the head. While it may seem like a good idea to use a scrubber pad connected to a power tool, the surface irregularities created can cause sealing problems down the road.
Step 4 - Chase the head bolt or stud holes with a tap or thread chaser to remove any crud and prepare the threads. Use compressed air to blow out any stragglers. Correct head bolt torque is of utmost importance. Any interference can throw off the torque readings.
Step 5 - Pre-fit the head gasket in the correct orientation. Never use sealant unless specifically required by the manufacturer. Head gaskets that require sealant will usually come so equipped. The service manual will outline sealant locations and requirements.
Step 6 - Correct bolt tightening sequence and torque is key to proper head gasket sealing. Use new bolts if required. Coat head bolt threads with some engine oil before installing. Always follow tightening sequence and torque instructions to the last detail.

Replacing My alternator.

Over the past several years, the reliability of vehicle charging systems has certainly improved. However, if you own an older vehicle, sooner or later a warning light on your dashboard is going to tell you that the alternator has failed. Alternators seldom experience a total failure, but the relatively low cost of completely re-conditioned units has virtually eliminated any need for the do-it-yourselfer to try to repair an alternator - they are simply replaced. Starting in the early 1960s, alternators began to replace generators as the standard means of charging your vehicle's battery. Like generators, alternators are belt driven from the crankshaft pulley of the engine. Today, two basic types of drive belts are used: The V-belt and the serpentine (ribbed) belt. The V-belt belt design predominated up to the late 1980s. Today, most vehicles use a ribbed, serpentine belt. Since serpentine-belt-driven alternators vary substantially in how the belt is held in "tension," replacement techniques vary quite a bit. This DIY article will concentrate only on the older, V-belt driven systems. When replacing the alternator, you will need to decide between purchasing a new alternator from your vehicle's dealership or buying a rebuilt unit from an auto parts store. The cost difference is substantial, so weigh the pluses and minuses before you buy.
SetupPark your vehicle inside or outside in a well-lighted, well-ventilated, level area. Locate the alternator under the hood in the engine compartment. Here are some hints:
The alternator is always belt-driven off the front of the engine, even on transverse-engine, front-wheel-drive vehicles.
The alternator has electrical wires running to it.
Most alternators are made of aluminum.
Most alternators have a small, built-in fan visible behind the belt pulley. Check the owner's manual for more information. In many cases, you'll find a diagram of the engine compartment with the alternator identified. Once you have located your vehicle's alternator, carefully note how it is attached to the engine. There should be two points where the alternator is bolted to the engine - one which allows the alternator to swivel or swing in order to vary the tension on the V-belt, the other, usually a curved bracket with a long slotted hole in it, that limits the amount of swivel and locks the alternator in place. Make sure that you can reach these bolts with either socket or combination wrenches. In many cases you must use two wrenches - one on each side of the bolt - in order to loosen it. If the bolts/nuts appear to be corroded, test your ability to free them.
Point of No Return If you cannot locate the alternator, reach the attachment bolts or free the nuts, stop and let a professional Technician handle the job. Note: This DIY task really benefits from having a second vehicle and/or another set of hands. More on this later.
Tools RequiredBasic hand tools are needed for this job:
Combination wrenches
Socket wrenches
Vise grips
A large, flat-bladed screwdriver
MaterialsOther than a new or rebuilt alternator, the only other material required is a new V-belt, masking tape (or similar) and a marker pen. You may also need some fine-grit sandpaper if the nuts and washers on the alternator are corroded. Since you have to loosen the V-belt when you replace an alternator, unless the belt is relatively new, it makes good sense to replace it. The alternator and V-belt can be purchased at your car's dealership or, for most cars, at auto parts stores. When you go to the parts counter, you will need to provide the year, make, model, engine displacement, and even information about options on your vehicle, such as power steering and air conditioning. All this information is needed since V-belt length varies depending upon what engine accessory is being driven. Here's where it's beneficial to have another running vehicle or a friend's car. Ideally, you should remove the old alternator and V-belt from your vehicle and take them to the parts counter. In this way, you can ensure that the replacements match perfectly. The JobPark your car (inside or outside) with plenty of space to work around each side of the engine compartment.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the vehicle's battery. If you don't do this, some of the wires that run to the back of the alternator can short out if they touch the car body or engine. Disconnecting the battery will protect you and the electrical circuits of the vehicle.
Loosen the two bolts that hold the alternator in place. If these bolts have nuts on the opposite side, you may have to use two wrenches on one or both of these bolts. Do not remove the bolts yet.
Once you have loosened the bolts, try to rotate the alternator to loosen the slack in the V-belt - rotate it towards the direction that the V-belt runs. Just move the alternator enough to remove the V-belt from the alternator pulley.
If you are replacing the V-belt at this time, take the belt off the rest of the pulleys on the engine. This may take some patience and involve a couple of scratched knuckles. You may have to work the belt over the radiator fan and shroud.
Remove the electrical wires that are attached to the back of the alternator. Sometimes they are held in place by plugs with wire retainers; some are held on with nuts and washers. Using the masking tape and marker pen, mark the location of each wire that you remove so that you install them in the same place on the replacement alternator. Make a diagram of the wire locations on the back of the alternator, and write down the color of the wire or plug that goes to each location. Check that the replacement alternator has the same type and location of fittings for the wires. You may have to use the old nuts and washers on the replacement unit. If so, clean them and even give them a quick wipe with some fine sandpaper.
Finish loosening the bolts that hold the alternator in place and remove these bolts. Remove the alternator and set it aside.
Take the replacement alternator and, if not already done, feed the bolts into place within the alternator housing. Position the alternator so that you can start to feed the bolts into the holes on the two engine brackets. Loosely place the nuts and washers on the back of the bolts. Make sure that you position the loosely held alternator so that it won't swing down and hit your knuckles!
Install the new V-belt on the engine pulleys first (and on any other engine accessory that it drives) and finally, on the alternator pulley. If the new V-belt is not the right size, you can temporarily re-use the old belt. You can visit the parts counter again to get the correct size, and install a new V-belt at a later time.
Now you need to position the alternator in the correct place and begin to get the right tension V-belt before you tighten the bolts that hold the alternator in place. This can be frustrating, particularly if you are working alone, but there is a way to simplify the job. First, hand-tighten the bolt/nut that holds the alternator to the engine - you still need to rotate the alternator to the correct position on the slotted bracket. Then rotate the alternator until it is holding the V-belt in place with no obvious slack. Now take a pair of vise grips and adjust the jaws so that they can tighten on the slotted bracket. Position the vise grips on the slotted bracket just behind the "ear" on the alternator housing - in other words, let the vise grips be your extra set of hands holding the alternator against the V-belt in the proper position. In effect, you are using the vise grips as a "stop" on the slotted bracket.
By just moving the vise grips slightly you can now add the right tension to the V-belt. First, as noted above, make sure that there is no discernible slack in the V-belt. Then pull the alternator about 1/2 to 3/4 inch further in order to pull the V-belt tighter (or, stated another way, apply about 20 pounds of force against the belt). With the alternator now held in this new position, reposition the vise grips on the slotted bracket to hold the alternator in place. At this point, you can take your time and tighten all the bolts that hold the alternator in place.
Remove the vise grips, and replace all of the electrical wires on the back of the alternator. Use your wiring diagram as a reference.
Re-connect the battery negative terminal.
Taking all appropriate safety precautions, start the engine. First, ensure that the ignition warning light in the instrument panel goes out after the engine has been started. Then listen to the belt. If you hear any belt squeal, the belt is too loose. Shut off the engine, and try to further tighten the alternator on the slotted bracket. Be careful not to over-tension the belt. Too much pressure on the engine accessories can ruin the bearings of the water pump or alternator in a relatively short time.

Should I flush my transmission fluid?

If it is a newer vehicle with less than 80,000 miles, I would recommend regular servicing of the transmission every 25,000 miles, including changing the fluid and internal filter. It is important that you maintain the transmission early on in the life of the vehicle, or you could set yourself up for real trouble if you change the transmission fluid later on (discussed below).

Regular servicing of the transmission can provide longer life expectancy, smoother shifting, and increased performance.

Some fast lube places service transmissions by "flushing" the transmission using a special machine that acts like a blood transfusion machine. It pumps out the transmission fluid, filters it, then recirculates it back into the transmission several times until the fluid is clean. I have mixed emotions about this procedure.

Yes, I will agree that with this machine it is possible to remove more of the old dirty fluid from inside the transmission than the conventional method of removing the transmission pan, draining the fluid and replacing the internal filter, but I feel very strongly that the internal filter should also be changed. Metal and plastic debris become lodged in the filter, and I have seen the filter itself break down and become compacted to the point that it restricts fluid flow.

If the fluid has become contaminated with water or some other foreign fluid, then I would recommend the flush method, but for regular maintenance I prefer the tried-and-true way of draining the old fluid and replacing the filter. If you have any doubt as to what method would be right for your vehicle, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop.

I really feel the reason these fast lube places have adopted this flush method is because it lessons the chance of "mechanic error" while removing the transmission pan and filter, not necessarily because it is the best way to perform transmission maintenance.

Higher Mileage Cars

If your vehicle has high mileage (> 80,000 miles) and regular transmission servicing has been preformed as recommended, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop if you experience a problem such as:

* Slipping
* Hard or erratic shifting
* Slow to shift when engine is cold (first thing in the morning)

If your vehicle has high mileage (> 80,000 miles) and the transmission has not been maintained, I would not recommend replacing the fluid and filter. The fluid that has been in the transmission all this time has become dirty and gritty. This gritty fluid is actually providing needed friction for the worn internal parts of the transmission.

Changing the fluid and replacing the filter would remove this friction that the internal transmission parts have become dependent on. If you have not been regularly maintaining the transmission throughout the life of the car, you might actually be doing more harm than good if you replace the transmission fluid at this point. For example, putting new clean slick transmission fluid in an older high mileage vehicle could cause the transmission to slip.

If you are not experiencing a problem, have over 80,000 miles on your car, and have not kept up regular maintenance on the transmission, my advice would be to leave the transmission fluid and filter alone. If you are experiencing a transmission problem like those listed above, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop before allowing your regular mechanic to service the transmission.

I learned about this problem several years ago...the hard way. We had two cars in our shop with these "minor" transmission symptoms that I have listed above, and both of them had to be towed out to the transmission shop after servicing. The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper.

This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to. Sometimes even the best of us learn lessons the hard (and expensive) way. Flushing your transmission is vital to the transmission performance, But you must flush it regularly, once the fluid is damaged, it is best not to flush your transmission.

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