Changing spark plugs on a nissan maxima

Here are some more details on how you can change your own spark plugs on your Nissan Maxima:

Tools and Supplies Needed:

Socket Wrench
Socket Wrench Extentions
Sparkplug Wrench Attachment
8mm Socket
12mm Deep Socket
4mm Hex Tool
Phillips Screwdriver (Optional)



Estimated time: 30 Minutes

1. Here are a picture of the Tools I used to change the spark plugs.
2. I used NGK Copper Plugs for my replacement. This is optional, the maxima is recommended to run with Platinum Plugs, however copper provides a better spark and the only down side is it will only last for 30k instead of 60k for platinum plugs. The Nissan Part # for these plugs are 22401 - 50Y05. you can walk into any Nissan Dealership and give them this part number for these copper plugs. The NGK name for the plugs are NGK V-Power Copper BKR5E-11, all this information was obtained from Bill from Maxima.org
3. You will have to remove the valve cover to access the front coil packs & spark plugs, the valve cover is secured by 4 hex screws and can be seen on the graphic to the right with red dots in them.
4. Use your 4mm Hex Tool to remove the Hex screws from the valve cover.
5. Once the Valve Cover is removed you will see the Coil Packs for the Spark Plugs, i have numbered them 1 - 3 in the diagram to the right. Please note this is not the order in the firing of the spark plugs, i just named them 1 - 3 for illustration of location.
6. Use your socket wrench and 8mm Socket to remove the Screws that are securing the Coil Packs. A Phillips screwdriver is optional, however if the screws are pretty tight, you can end up damaging the screw. A Socket Extention is recommend but not required as it allows the job to be much easier.
7. Once the Coil Pack Screws are removed you can lift out the coil packs.
8. Use your Socket Wrench, Extension and Spark Plug Socket and remove the Sparkplugs from the engine.
9. Here is a picture of the Spark Plug removed from the engine.
10. Here is a picture of the Platinum and Copper plugs side by side.
11. Here is another shot.
12. Once you have removed your old spark plug, you may now insert your new spark plug into the engine. The FSM suggests 14 - 22 ft lbs for torquing the Spark Plugs. If you don't have a torque wrench i have found a method that works for me, please don't do this unless you want to, i will not be reponsible. The method i use is, once the plug becomes snug, i then make one full 1/4 turn with the wrench. Again do this at your own risk.
13. Once you are done tightening up your new front plugs re-insert your coil packs.
14. Use your Socket Wrench and 8mm Socket to tighten up the coil packs to make them secure.
15. One you have tighten all your coil packs you are ready to put back your valve cover.
16. Use your 4mm Hex Tool to tighten up your valve cover and now you are ready to do the rear plugs.
17. The rear spark plugs are located towards the back of the engine inbetween the intake manifold. As you can see on the right. Once again i have numbered them for illustration and not for firing order.
18. Use your socket wrench and 8mm Socket to remove the Screws that are securing the Coil Packs. A Phillips screwdriver is optional, however if the screws are pretty tight, you can end up damaging the screw. A Socket Extention is recommend or an 8mm deep socket. Becareful with these screws as they can get lost in the engine real easily.
19. The Coil Pack to the driver side of the car is very hard to get to and will require you removing two nuts to get to it. The first one i have labeled "1". You will now use your 12 mm Deep Socket to remove this Nut.
20. Here is a picture of the Second Nut label "2"
21. To ensure that you don't mix up coil packs when you are replacing the rear plugs, put them in order as they would go in the Engine, I have labeled 1 2 3 on the Engine Location and 1 2 3 on how it appears where i have put them temporarily.
22. Use your Socket Wrench, Extension and Spark Plug Socket and remove the Sparkplugs from the engine.
23. Once you have removed your old spark plug, you may now insert your new spark plug into the engine. The FSM suggests 14 - 22 ft lbs for torquing the Spark Plugs. If you don't have a torque wrench i have found a method that works for me, please don't do this unless you want to, i will not be reponsible. The method i use is, once the plug becomes snug, i then make one full 1/4 turn with the wrench. Again do this at your own risk.
24. Once you are done inserting your new plugs. Use your 8mm Socket / Extension and Socket Wrench to replace the rear coil packs.
25. Use your 12 mm Deep Socket / Socket Wrench to tighten up the two Nuts near the last coil pack.
26. Now you have replaced your Spark Plugs.

If you want to replace your brakes yourself

Front brakes on all modern cars are disc brakes. The front brakes generally provide 80% of the stopping power, and so tend to wear faster than the rear. Replacing them - pads, rotors and calipers - is quite simple once you understand the process, and can save you a great deal of money. These instructions will include a full front brake replacement. Also, having a service manual for your vehicle will save your sanity, as well as time and money. If you only need pads, or pads and rotors, but not calipers, skip the steps for replacing calipers. Repeat the steps below for each side of the car as necessary.

1. Determine the parts, tools you'll need and be safe being aware of blowing, breathing or ingesting asbestos dust from the brakes is a health hazard--wipe the powdery or caked dust off with rags or paper towels (dampened with a solvent like alcohol) and dispose of the wipes (see "Warnings" below). Consider the symptoms of the brakes; for example:
   
   • If the front brakes have been squealing loudly, you may need pads only.
   • If the car or brake-peddle has been shaking when braking, you'll need to have the rotors resurfaced (called "turning"), or replace them.
   • If the car pulls to one side while braking, but stays straight otherwise, you may need calipers. This is a sign of damaged pads caused by leaking brake fluid, oil or grease leaks onto the pads.
   • If the brakes have a grinding noise, this means rotors may have been ruined by metal to metal contact (of completely worn or broken pads).
2. Buy more parts than you think you'll need. You can always return what you don't use (keep your receipt and boxes and parts clean/undamaged). If you get caught without something while the car is apart, you may not have transportation to go buy anything.
3. Park the car in a clean, solid, well-lit place. Block the rear wheels with something heavy (like bricks or lumber which is small enough to jam under the wheels) to prevent the car from rolling or sliding while it's jacked up. Apply the emergency brake (emergency brakes only hold the rear, not the front wheels).
4. Loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up (do not remove lug nuts yet). If you skip this step, loosening the lugs may be very annoying, if not impossible. It is also extremely dangerous to loosen lug nuts after a car has been jacked up.
5. Jack the car up with a sturdy jack on a solid surface (such as a floor jack if you have concrete to work on) and lower it very slowly and carefully onto jackstands. Caution: a floor jack's wheels need to be able to roll and the jack needs to travel a little and so it must not embed (sink) into a soft floor or surface.
6. Never work without jackstands that are on solid flat surface like stepping-stones or wide scraps of strong wood to keep the jackstands from sinking, leaning or tilting and falling, etc. Position the jackstands under a solid part of the car - frame or subframe. You can easily damage the under side of the car, or even break something.
   
   • Give the car a couple of good hard, small shoves from side to side; if it's going to shift, slide off the jackstands, sink into asphalt, dirt or gravel, or just twist around and fall, better learn now while the wheels are on, than when you're partially under it with the wheels off.
   • Finish removing the wheels, and lay the wheels under the car, just to the rear of the jackstands. In case the car slips off the stands, those wheels may prevent you, your arms or head from being caught under a falling car (preventing the car from falling to the ground) if the jack stands fall over.
7. Make sure you have all the necessary tools. There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the pad bracket, and two bolts that hold the pad bracket to the steering knuckle. If you don't have the tools to remove these, now is the time to put the wheels back on and go to the hardware store. [You may need both SAE and Metric sizes of wrenches and sockets, as well as bleeder screw wrenches. Also, you may need a set of hex key wrenches or a hex bit socket set.]
8. Removing calipers with hose attached: Remove the caliper from the pad bracket if necessary. (Some smaller economy-car calipers are simply held together by spring-clips, and it is very easy to remove the pads and to compress the piston without difficulty.) Larger car and truck calipers are much more hefty and are bolted in place. The pads may come out with the caliper, or stay in the bracket, depending on the car. Place the caliper on top of the steering knuckle, or hang it with a piece of clothes hanger wire or any other place where it's weight won't be hanging on the brake hose, and will not fall.
9. Remove the pads and inspect them for wear. You may need to siphon out some brake fluid from the master cylinder to accommodate the fluid being forced out (by the brake caliper piston). You should remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir and cover it with a paper towel or rag to prevent any foreign matter getting in there. Some calipers have pistons that are made of ceramic or other sensitive materials, and merely prying them back with a screwdriver can crack them and require replacing the entire caliper. Consider using a C-clamp or piece of wood to force the piston back and allow the pads to be freed, as described below in installing new calipers. If either pad is down to the metal pins or backing, you'll need to machine (turn) or replace the rotors.
   
   • This is also a good time to compare the wear pattern of the brakes on the left side of the car to the ones on the right side. If there is a vast difference, you'll need to replace the calipers or rotors.
   • Some rotors easily slide off from the wheel lug bolts, but some are made into the wheel-hub and will require getting into the wheel bearings and grease repacking see below.
10. Apply anti-squeal paste to the backing of the new brake pads, but do not install them yet. Keep fluid and lubricants off of the brake pad material. Some cars, especially Ford Explorers/Mountaineers, have special lubricants on the caliper moving parts, and this lubricant cannot easily be obtained separately (ask for a heat resistant grease made for brakes parts). Try not to remove any of this where applicable. If these parts are dry and not lubricated, consider replacing the caliper/etc, as you will probably other damage or signs of problems as noted above.
11. Inspect the brake rotors: If there are any grooves, or excessive glazing (glossiness), remove them for resurfacing (called "turning") or replacement.
12. Inspect the brake hoses: If they are leaking by the fittings or damaged, they'll need replacing - but that is outside the scope of this article. If you are only installing brake pads, skip to the step beginning: Clean the caliper slide pins below.
13. Remove brake rotors if turning or replacing them. On most cars, the rotor is separate from the hub. Simply slide the rotor off of the lug studs. You may need to remove a set screw and/or use a rubber mallet to loosen the rotor. You may need an impact driver (hammer it while twisting counter-clockwise) to remove a set screw.
    
    • If the brake rotor and hub are one piece, remove the grease cup, cotter pin and castle nut from the axle to allow removal. (Only if necessary, unbolt the pad bracket from the steering knuckle. The bolts that hold this on tend to get frozen, so you may need to employ a hammer, breaker bar, Liquid Wrench or a torch to loosen them.)
14. Getting the rotors resurfaced ("turned") at a machine shop or auto parts store that turns rotors. Some auto parts stores have brake lathes or a small machine shop. Call before starting your job to verify hours; most machine shops are only open until noon on Saturday and are closed on Sunday. Rotor/hub assemblies can be resurfaced ("turned") if they are not badly worn or damaged, but consider replacing them if they are grooved. The shop should refuse to turn them if they are thin or damaged.
    
    • Even though the replacement parts may be expensive, especially if you're replacing the hub and its bearings instead of putting the old hub and bearings back on the car. However, not all new rotor/hub assemblies include the bearings (although they may have new races in place, so that you can just "drop in" the new grease-packed bearings). You may have to install races and seals yourself, as well as pack them with grease. So a set of bearings may be a necessary purchase as well.
    • When applicable, this is also a good time to repack your front wheel bearings. Refer to your service manual or lubrication guide for this procedure. You'll need some new cotter pins and wheel bearing grease for this, as well as a pair of needle-nose pliers.
15. Install the new or resurfaced ("turned") rotors in reverse order of how they came off. New rotors have a layer of oil on them to prevent rust while they're on the shelf. Clean this off with carb/fuel-injector cleaner; it works better than brake cleaner in this case. Reattach the pad bracket. If you are not replacing calipers, skip to the step beginning: Clean the caliper slide pins below.
16. Replacing calipers if necessary: Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is securely closed, especially if you opened it earlier to allow for fluid to expand. Remove the "banjo" bolt holding the brake hose to the caliper. This is a special hollow bolt that allows fluid to flow through it; don't damage it or lose it. Make a note of its position or orientation, you will need to install it on the new caliper in the same orientation to avoid bending and damaging the hose.
17. Drain the fluid from the caliper into a safe container for proper disposal.
18. Notice that the new caliper will come with two brass washers, plus rubber grommets for the slide pins, pad retaining clips (if applicable), possibly new slide pins, and maybe that hollow bolt mentioned above. Make sure that the calipers are installed with the bleeder fittings/screws in the upper or top position. If you accidentally switch the left and right calipers and install them on the wrong side (easier to do than you think!), the bleeder fittings will be in a lower position, which will result in trapped air inside the caliper fluid chamber, which will make bleeding the brakes impossible to do. Remember, bleeder screws UP!
19. Reattach the brake hose with a new brass or copper washer installed on both sides of the hose fitting, that the hollow "banjo" bolt goes through. Reusing of the old washers, or failure to put the new ones in the right place will cause the brakes to leak. Tighten the bolt firmly.
20. Clean the caliper slide pins, if you haven't done so yet, with a wire buffer-wheel, brush or fine grit sand paper, if you will be reusing them and any place where the pads slide against the caliper or pad bracket with a wire brush. Apply silicone brake lubricant to all of those slide locations.
21. Compress the caliper piston, or in some cases screw them in if necessary. Yes, some caliper pistons (such as some Nissan) do actually screw in and out. If so, there will be notches for a tool to engage the top of the piston. Pressing that kind of piston in will strip the threads and ruin the calipers and pistons.
    
    • Using the large C-clamp: if this is the press in kind of piston, take one of the old brake pads and place it in the caliper against the piston to place the C-clamp against. Usually a heavy duty 8" to 10" size (inner measurement) C-clamp will do, (lighter duty clamps will spring, bend or break), slowly and evenly compress the piston back into the caliper.
    • An even easier way to compress this piston is use a special (but inexpensive and readily available) Lisle Corp Brake Pad Spreader tool (Lisle part #24400 $7.95) made specifically for this--it beats hauling a heavy 10" iron C-clamp around--plus it's much faster to use!
22. Clean up any brake fluid that may come out of the reservoir at this point; watch out for drips on the side where the reservoir is located. Be careful, brake fluid will damage or remove the paint from your vehicle if it is not cleaned off instantly!
23. Put the new pads in the caliper or bracket. You may need to employ the large flat screwdriver again, but this time be more careful so you don't destroy any of the pad clips.
24. Place the caliper back into the pad bracket, and bolt it in.
25. Bleed the brakes. (If you have not replaced the calipers or loosened any fittings, you can SKIP to "Wheels, fluid, testing") -- or do bleeding the brakes later if you determine that the brake peddle feels mushy or goes down too far and so come back "here" when it is all back together if you need to...).
    
    • So, you'll need a good helper for this, and do one side at a time.
26. Put the wheels back on the car to hold the rotor on straight, if it is the easy removal kind of rotor (separate from the hub).
27. Do not let the car down from the jackstands yet.
28. Remove the rubber cap from the hollow bleeder screw, and unscrew the bleeder screw about 1/4 or 1/2 turn, or just enough to loosen it being careful not to damage the screw (use a snugly fitting solid wrench, not pliers and not an adjustable wrench). Attach an appropriate size clear or rubber hose to the bleeder screw with the other end immersed in brake fluid in a jar or can before depressing the brake pedal. This helps to avoid sucking air back into the bleeder screw if the pedal is let up at the wrong time.
29. Have your assistant slowly depress the brake pedal until it's at the floor and keep there until you tell them to let it back up, some fluid may flow out or you may see bubbling from the tube in the jar while only air is coming out. While the pedal is at the floor, close the bleeder screw. Have your assistant slowly lift the pedal. While the brake pedal is all the way up, open the bleeder screw again.
30. Repeat the process of pressing the peddle down, closing the screw, letting up, loosening, return to pressing the peddle down, etc... until you see clean brake fluid (without bubbles) coming out of the bleeder. Always tighten the bleeder screw before letting up the peddle; final check that it is tightened securely when finished. (Some brakes are gravity-bleed, and fluid will just run out when you open the screw, and only require you to open the bleeder screw until you see clean fluid, without working the brake pedal, but the pedal pressing procedure works in all cases).
31. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir does not run empty, while bleeding the brakes else you'll be introducing air into the master-cylinder and brake system again and will have to bleed it all out which is even more extensive than just clearing air out of the wheel-cylinders and hoses.
32. Wheels, fluid, testing: Put the wheels back on. Tighten the lug nuts in an crossing patterning, opposing fashion so the wheel goes on straight. Example: If you have five lugs, tighten them across the wheel like drawing a star pattern with a pencil by criss-crossing back and forth.
33. Check the brake fluid level and fill as necessary.
34. Sit in the driver's seat and push slowly on the brake pedal a few times. The first time, the pedal may go down a ways, but the pedal should be high and firm after two or three times. This seats the pads against the rotors.
35. Check for leaks at the brake hoses if you've replaced the calipers.
36. Lower the car and perform a "mini" test drive, with wheel blocks situated a little behind and in front of the vehicles front and rear tires to allow some short movements rolling back and forth to test the brakes. Otherwise you may find out the hard way that your brakes aren't working. During an actual test drive, make sure the car doesn't pull, that there are no funny scraping or clunking noises, and that the brakes are working correctly.
37. Retorque the lug nuts to be sure they are tight and put the hubcaps/wheel covers on.
38. Put your tools away and clean up. You'll probably want to keep the old parts for a day or two to show your family and friends, before throwing them away. You're all done. Use a mechanics' hand cleaner, because brake dust contains asbestos, and brakes get really dirty.

• Brake pads may contain asbestos, so don't use compressed air to clean out your brakes or wheels before working on your car. Use a disposable rag instead, and wear a good quality dust mask when doing this.
• Always replace brakes in pairs. Pads on both sides, rotors on both sides, calipers on both sides.
• Keep your work area clean and organized, so you don't lose any tools or parts. Keep plenty of paper towels and rags handy. Also, remember to wear old clothes. Don't work in your suit, if possible.
• Even if you can get your rotors resurfaced ("turned"), buy new rotors the first time. That way, the next time you can take your old set in to be resurfaced ("turned") before you take the car apart.
• Disc brakes squeal by their nature. Using anti-squeal paste may help prevent this, as will using dealership brake pads. Cheap brake pads squeal more often, but the squealing of new brakes does not indicate improper installation or safety hazard.
• Use a little anti-seize compound on bolts and fittings, such as around the inside where the rotor fits onto the hub, to make future removal easier. Don't use too much!
• Buy the best quality parts you can afford. You're already saving from not paying mechanic's labor charges, so splurge on the parts, for rice cakes!
• Use the jack from the trunk of the car if you must, but a small floor jack is much safer and not very expensive. Jack stands are good idea as well. Never work under a vehicle using just a jack! Always use jack stands!!!
• Remember to install your new calipers with the bleeder screws in the upper or top position. If after installing you see that they are in a lower position, then you have accidentally switched the left and right calipers. Then you must remove them and reinstall them correctly. Remember, Bleeder Screws UP!
• Buy a service manual for your vehicle. Also, buy a pair of fender covers to keep your greasy paws and brake fluid off your vehicles paint, and also buy a good pair of washable mechanic's gloves. They're worth it!
• When buying a set of wrenches or sockets try to get both SAE and Metric sizes together. Yes, sometimes you will need those Metric sizes. Alas, we live in a global economy, poor wretches that we are. There's a song in there somewhere.
• When compressing the caliper, if you see that brake fluid will overflow, you can remove the excess with a clean turkey baster. Do not re-use the fluid once removed. If you need to add any, use new fluid. It's cheap, so don't try to save a few pennies on your brakes. You may need them.
• Most vehicles will not need to have the brakes bled, if you never open the hydraulic system (ie: Loosing the bleeder screw, brake hoses or metal lines) unless there is a leak. This will save time and hassle from frozen or rusted bleeder screws.

Many factors affect mpg

Quick acceleration and heavy braking can reduce fuel economy by up to 33 percent on the highway and 5 percent around town. New EPA tests account for faster acceleration rates, but vigorous driving can still lower MPG.

Excessive idling decreases MPG. The EPA city test includes idling, but more idling will lower MPG.

Driving at higher speeds increases aerodynamic drag (wind resistance), reducing fuel economy. The new EPA tests account for aerodynamic drag up to highway speeds of 80 mph, but some drivers exceed this speed.

Cold weather and frequent short trips can reduce fuel economy, since your engine doesn't operate efficiently until it is warmed up. In colder weather, it takes longer for your engine to warm, and on short trips, your vehicle operates a smaller percentage of time at the desired temperature. Note: Letting your car idle to warm-up doesn't help your fuel economy, it actually uses more fuel and creates more pollution.

Cargo or cargo racks on top of your vehicle (e.g., cargo boxes, canoes, etc.) increase aerodynamic drag and lower fuel economy. MPG tests do not account for this type of cargo.

Towing a trailer or carrying excessive weight decreases fuel economy. Vehicles are assumed to carry only three hundred pounds of passengers and cargo during testing.

Running electrical accessories (e.g., air conditioner) decreases fuel economy. Operating the air conditioner on "Max" can reduce MPG by roughly 5-25% compared to not using it.

Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground.

Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases crankcase losses.
A poorly tuned engine burns more fuel.

Improperly aligned or inflated tires can lower fuel economy by increasing rolling resistance.
Brake drag can make your engine work harder. A dirty air filter can decrease the fuel economy of older cars with carburated engines.

Some fuels contain less energy than others. Using oxygenated fuels or reformulated gasoline (RFG), for example, can cause a small decrease (1-3%) in fuel economy.

The energy content of gasoline varies seasonally. Typical summer conventional gasoline contains about 1.7% more energy than typical winter conventional gasoline.

Small variations in the way vehicles are manufactured and assembled can cause MPG variations among vehicles of the same make and model. Usually, differences are small, but a few drivers will see a marked deviation from the EPA estimates.

Another great idea to save fuel

Combining errands into one trip saves you time and money. Several short trips taken from a cold start can use twice as much fuel as a longer multipurpose trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm. Trip planning ensures that traveling is done when the engine is warmed-up and efficient, and it can reduce the distance you travel.

Commuting

Stagger your work hours to avoid peak rush hours.

Drive your most fuel-efficient vehicle.

Consider telecommuting (working from home) if your employer permits it.

Take advantage of carpools and ride-share programs. You can cut your weekly fuel costs in half and save wear on your car if you take turns driving with other commuters. Many urban areas allow vehicles with multiple passengers to use High Occupancy Vehicle (HOV) lanes which are typically less congested, further improving your fuel economy.

Consider using public transit if it is available and convenient for you. The American Public Transit Transportation Association has links to information about public transportation in your state.

Traveling

A roof rack or carrier provides additional cargo space and may allow you to meet your needs with a smaller car. However, a loaded roof rack can decrease your fuel economy by 5 percent. Reduce aerodynamic drag and improve your fuel economy by placing items inside the trunk whenever possible.
Avoid carrying unneeded items, especially heavy ones. An extra 100 lbs in the trunk reduces a typical car's fuel economy by 1-2 percent.
Remember: here at The Wright Import in Cumming,Georgia we are always available to serve you. Come by or call anytime.

The Wright Import Service Center

(770) 888-0100

2636 Business Dr, Cumming, GA 30040 Map it | Get directions Cross Streets: Near the intersection of Business Dr and GA-20

http://www.freewebs.com/thewrightimport/

Always keep your car maintained.

Keep Your Engine Properly Tuned

Fixing a car that is noticeably out of tune or has failed an emissions test can improve its gas mileage by an average of 4 percent, though results vary based on the kind of repair and how well it is done. Fixing a serious maintenance problem, such as a faulty oxygen sensor, can improve your mileage by as much as 40 percent. If you need help changing your spark plugs please go here and read this great article on how to do it yourself.

Fuel Economy Benefit: 4% Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.08/gallon

Keep Tires Properly Inflated

You can improve your gas mileage by around 3.3 percent by keeping your tires inflated to the proper pressure. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.3 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires. Properly inflated tires are safer and last longer. The proper tire pressure for your vehicle is usually found on a sticker in the driver's side door jamb or the glove box and in your owner's manual. Do not use the maximum pressure printed on the tire's sidewall.

Fuel Economy Benefit: up to 3% Equivalent Gasoline Savings: up to $0.06/gallon

Use the Recommended Grade of Motor Oil

You can improve your gas mileage by 1-2 percent by using the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil. For example, using 10W-30 motor oil in an engine designed to use 5W-30 can lower your gas mileage by 1-2 percent. Using 5W-30 in an engine designed for 5W-20 can lower your gas mileage by 1-1.5 percent. Also, look for motor oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API performance symbol to be sure it contains friction-reducing additives.

Fuel Economy Benefit: 1-2% Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.02-$0.04/gallon

NEW INFORMATION: Replacing a Clogged Air Filter on Modern Cars Improves Performance but Not MPG

A new study shows that replacing a clogged air filter on cars with fuel-injected, computer-controlled gasoline engines does not improve fuel economy but it can improve acceleration time by around 6 to 11 percent. This kind of engine is prevalent on most gasoline cars manufactured from the early 1980s onward. Tests suggest that replacing a clogged air filter on an older car with a carbureted engine may improve fuel economy 2 to 6 percent under normal replacement conditions or up to 14 percent if the filter is so clogged that it significantly affects drivability. The effect of a clogged air filter on diesel vehicles will be tested in the near future.

Note: Cost savings are based on an assumed fuel price of $1.96/gallon. Data Sources Information on the impact of air filter condition on fuel economy is based on a study by Kevin Norman, Shean Huff, and Brian West, Effect of Intake Air Filter Condition on Vehicle Fuel Economy, Oak Ridge National Laboratory, 2009. Estimates for fuel savings from vehicle maintenance, keeping tires properly inflated, and using the recommended grade of motor oil based on Energy and Environmental Analysis, Inc., Owner Related Fuel Economy Improvements, Arlington, Virginia, 2001

Fuel economy and your wallet

Drive Sensibly

Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration and braking) wastes gas. It can lower your gas mileage by 33 percent at highway speeds and by 5 percent around town. Sensible driving is also safer for you and others, so you may save more than gas money.

	Fuel Economy Benefit:	5-33%
	Equivalent Gasoline Savings:	$0.10-$0.65/gallon

Observe the Speed Limit
While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds), gas mileage usually decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph.
You can assume that each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.24 per gallon for gas.
Observing the speed limit is also safer.

	Fuel Economy Benefit:	7-23%
	Equivalent Gasoline Savings:	$0.14-$0.45/gallon

Remove Excess Weight

Avoid keeping unnecessary items in your vehicle, especially heavy ones. An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your MPG by up to 2 percent. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones.

	Fuel Economy Benefit:	1-2%/100 lbs
	Equivalent Gasoline Savings:	$0.02-$0.04/gallon

Avoid Excessive Idling

Idling gets 0 miles per gallon. Cars with larger engines typically waste more gas at idle than do cars with smaller engines.

Use Cruise Control

Using cruise control on the highway helps you maintain a constant speed and, in most cases, will save gas.

Use Overdrive Gears

When you use overdrive gearing, your car's engine speed goes down. This saves gas and reduces engine wear.

Note: Cost savings are based on an assumed fuel price of $1.96/gallon.

Data Sources

Estimates for fuel savings from sensible driving are based on Energy and Environmental Analysis, Inc., Owner Related Fuel Economy Improvements, Arlington, Virginia, 2001.
Estimates for the effect of speed on MPG are based on a study by West, B.H., R.N. McGill, J.W. Hodgson, S.S. Sluder, and D.E. Smith, Development and Verification of Light-Duty Modal Emissions and Fuel Consumption Values for Traffic Models, Oak Ridge National Laboratory, Oak Ridge, Tennessee, March 1999.

Some gas saving tips

Drive Sensibly

Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration and braking) wastes gas. It can lower your gas mileage by 33 percent at highway speeds and by 5 percent around town. Sensible driving is also safer for you and others, so you may save more than gas money.

	Fuel Economy Benefit:	5-33%
	Equivalent Gasoline Savings:	$0.10-$0.65/gallon

Observe the Speed Limit
While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds), gas mileage usually decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph.
You can assume that each 5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.24 per gallon for gas.
Observing the speed limit is also safer.

	Fuel Economy Benefit:	7-23%
	Equivalent Gasoline Savings:	$0.14-$0.45/gallon

Remove Excess Weight

Avoid keeping unnecessary items in your vehicle, especially heavy ones. An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your MPG by up to 2 percent. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones.

	Fuel Economy Benefit:	1-2%/100 lbs
	Equivalent Gasoline Savings:	$0.02-$0.04/gallon

Avoid Excessive Idling

Idling gets 0 miles per gallon. Cars with larger engines typically waste more gas at idle than do cars with smaller engines.

Use Cruise Control

Using cruise control on the highway helps you maintain a constant speed and, in most cases, will save gas.

Use Overdrive Gears

When you use overdrive gearing, your car's engine speed goes down. This saves gas and reduces engine wear.

Note: Cost savings are based on an assumed fuel price of $1.96/gallon.

Data Sources

Estimates for fuel savings from sensible driving are based on Energy and Environmental Analysis, Inc., Owner Related Fuel Economy Improvements, Arlington, Virginia, 2001.
Estimates for the effect of speed on MPG are based on a study by West, B.H., R.N. McGill, J.W. Hodgson, S.S. Sluder, and D.E. Smith, Development and Verification of Light-Duty Modal Emissions and Fuel Consumption Values for Traffic Models, Oak Ridge National Laboratory, Oak Ridge, Tennessee, March 1999.

When to flush your transmission

There are several subjects that tend to be a never-ending source of confusion. One that constantly comes up is changing or flushing the transmission fluid in the Toyota truck transmission. As usual most of the people that are confused and causing the confusion are Toyota Certified Technicians and service reps.

I have seen the inside of my transmission while it was torn down at Level 10 having its upgrades installed. When it was reinstalled in my truck with its new performance torque converter, Level 10 put in 12 quarts for fluid. When I got home I put another 3 quarts in to bring up to the full mark. Now if you were counting that is a total of 15 quarts of fluid.

If you decide to change the fluid like you should, you cannot get all the fluid out by draining the pan. When you drain the pan through the drain plug you will only drain about 3 of the 15 total quarts. That is not much of a fluid change at all. Most of the fluid is inside the torque converter, transmission cooler and the cooler lines. Some vehicles like Mercedes have a drain plug on the torque converter so it can be drained, but not on our Toyotas. There is only one way to get all the fluid out of the transmission so you can replace it with new fluid. That is to flush it.

There seems to be as much bad info out there about transmission flushes as there is about synthetic motor oil. The number of professional mechanics that claim that a flush will blow out the seals and cause damage to the transmission dumbfounds me. Those poor people are suffering from invincible ignorance and refuse to understand the benefit of a proper transmission flush.

Here is the BIG secret about transmission flush machines. They do not use pressure at all. They use the transmissions own pump to move in the new fluid that displaces the old fluid and the old fluid is collected and thrown away. There are two basic types of flush machines and here is how they work and the differences in the two

Cooler line flush machine:

The first type of flush machine connects into the transmission cooler lines. BG makes this kind and here is how it works. The line going from the transmission to the transmission cooler is disconnected and connected to the machine line in. The line out from the machine carrying new fluid is connected to the line going to the cooler. There is a chamber on the machine that has a diaphragm in it. The top part of the chamber above the diaphragm is filed with new fluid. The engine is started which turns the torque converter and the input shaft on the transmission. The input shaft turns the transmission pump and it makes hydraulic pressure. This causes fluid to flow through the cooler line. As fluid leaves the cooler line it enters the chamber on the flush machine. As the old fluid side of the diaphragm fills it pushes the diaphragm up and forces new fresh fluid into the transmission. After a while the old fluid is collected in the machine and it is replaced by new fluid. Now the transmission has been flushed. Really pretty simple. As you can see the machine cause no pressure and all fluid transfer is done by the transmission�s own pump.

Here is what I do not like about this type of machine. When the fluid leaves the transmission pump it passes to two different pressure regulators. One regulator supplies fluid at one pressure to the transmission itself that operates the pistons and controls gear shifting. The other is supplies the torque converter and the transmission cooler. So you can see that all the fluid leaving the pump does not go to the cooler. A bunch of it is cycled through the transmission and dumped back to the pan without going through the cooler. This type of flush machine does not remove all the old fluid, but it continuously dilutes it down with new fluid. It never really removes all of the old fluid, but is far superior to just drain and fill.

The other thing I do not like about this type of flush is that they sell the supposed benefit that they do not have to drop the pan and change the filter like that is a benefit. Dropping the pan is very important. Looking in the pan is a fantastic diagnostic tool that can tell you if something is going wrong in your transmission. Now lets say some crud is flushed out of the trans with this flush method. Where does it go? It can go into the pan, and then sucked up into the filter that may clog the filter causing the pump to starve for fluid and a pressure loss. On the engine the filter is after the pump and if the filter gets clogged there is a bypass valve that opens and oil bypass the clogged filter so the engine is still supplied with oil. Unlike the engine oil pump and filter the filter is on the intake side of the pump. If it gets clogged, that is it, it is clogged and stuff does not get lubricated and the clutches do not get enough clamping pressure and they slip and burn up. In just a faction of a second you just bought a new transmission if the filter clogs.

Pump inlet flush machine:

Now lets talk about the type of flush machine I like. This kind attaches to the pump intake after the pan and filter is removed. This machine only supplies fresh new fluid to the pump intake and as the fluid passes through the transmission it dumps out to a collection tray and never goes back through for a second pass. All of the old fluid and crud is GONE and replace with fresh new fluid. After the service a new filter is installed, the pan replaced and then it is topped off with new fluid to the proper level on the dipstick.

This process takes a total of 20 quarts of fluid to flush out 15 quarts of old fluid, replaces the fluid, and gives the mechanic the opportunity to look in the pan for anything unusual that would indicate a pending failure.

Everyone should have this type of service done every 30,000 miles, but definitely before your truck goes out of warranty. By looking in the pan you may get an indication that you are about to have transmission trouble that might show up right after you get out of warranty.

I will tell you that this type a flush does take more effort and makes more of a mess, costs a little more, but I think it is worth it

Fluid:

Now the last big question that remains is what type of fluid to put back in, conventional or synthetic. For lots of different reasons that is an easy answer, synthetic. Premium synthetic fluid will lubricate the transmission better, provide better traction to the clutches, removes heat better, and not break down as fast under high temperatures. Premium synthetic ATFs will protect better and last 3-5 times longer then conventional ATF. When my transmission with being reinstalled in my truck at Level 10, I asked Pat the owner what he thought about AMSOIL ATF. He said that is was the very best ATF in the world. I will let you guess what I use

Filter and pan gasket:

The filter should be changed with the fluid, just like motor oil filters. I got an e-mail from a guy that said he was told by a Toyota Service Rep that there is no filter in the transmission. The amazement continues. There are some transmissions out there that do not have replaceable filters, but this is not one of them.

When the filter is replaced it has to be done with care. There are three ports on the filter where the fluid passes into the transmission. Each has its own gasket. It is common for at least one of these gaskets to slip out of position during installation and cause air to leak into the pump pick up causing it to break suction and loose output pressure. The problem usually presents after hard stops and the transmission will not complete its shift into first. Then when you go to pull off the engine revs and then the transmission engages very harshly with a tire chirp. Just make sure they are all properly positioned during replacement.

The pan does not use a gasket, but many shops will try to install a cork one. Toyota uses their own seal packing material that is available from the parts counter. It is similar to RTV. They have two kinds, black and red. The black is for the engine and water pump and the red is for the transmission. I use something that I think is a little better. It is made by Permatex called �Right Stuff� and comes in a cheese whiz can. This is fantastic stuff and does not require any drying time before you refill the transmission. It is available from most parts stores. Be careful when reinstalling the pan bolts, as they are easy to strip.

WHEN NOT TO DO A TRANMISSION FLUSH:

Before draining or flushing you should pull the dip stick and look at the fluid. If it is dark, burnt smelling, and you see little flakes or speck in it, DO NOT FLUSH IT. The fluid and transmission is TOAST, but the transmission just has not figured out it should die yet. In these cases for reasons no one has figured out yet, if you flush a transmission in this condition it will fail right away. Real strange, but that is what seems to happen. If your trans is in this condition just drive it while you save for a replacement transmission. There is no way of telling when it will fail. It might be today, next week, or next year, but it is doomed.

The goal here is to flush the trans BEFORE the fluid gets rancid. What you are taking out should look like what you are putting in. Do not wait for a color or smell change. My 4Runner Owner's Manual calls for transmission fluid change at 30,000 mile intervals. The industry standard it two years OR 24,000 miles which ever comes first. It is your truck, you decide what is best for you