Friday, September 11, 2009

How do i know if the shock, shocks are bad on my Lexus

When it comes to Lexus shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their vehicle do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to:



1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.

2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.

3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.
I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Lexus at all.

The same principle applies for strut suspension.

1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Lexus and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.

2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)

3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.

4)On rough roads does your vehicle shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.

5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil, if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Lexus failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your vehicle. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Lexus is very important to the handling and tire wear on your vehicle.

How do i know if the shock, shocks are bad on my Hyundai

When it comes to Hyundai shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their Hyundai do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to:

 1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.

2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.

3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.

I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Hyundai at all. The same principle applies for strut suspension.
1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Hyundai and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.

2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)

3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.

4)On rough roads does your vehicle shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.

5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil, if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Hyundai failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your vehicle. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Hyundai is very important to the handling and tire wear on any Hyundai.

How do i know if the shock, shocks are bad on my Toyota

When it comes to Toyota shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their vehicle do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to:

1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.

2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.

3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.

I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Toyota at all. The same principle applies for strut suspension.

1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Toyota and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.

2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)

3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.

4)On rough roads does your Toyota shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.

5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil, if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Toyota failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your Toyota. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s, Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Toyota is very important to the handling and tire wear on any Toyota.

How do I know if the shocks on my nissan are bad

When it comes to Nissan shocks and suspension, many people are confused as to what the shocks on their vehicle do. The job of the shock is to slow down and damp the movement of the body on the wheel. The real function of shock absorbers are to: 1) Prevent bottoming, that is slowing down the compression of the spring and create lifting force on the wheel.
2}Prevent the tires from bouncing up and down on bumps and absorb some of the energy.
3)Keep the vehicle from bouncing up and down on the springs before settling down.
I’ve put together a few simple tests you can do even if you have no mechanical knowledge about your Nissan at all. The same principle applies for strut suspension.
1}Push your weight down on the front or rear of your Nissan and release .The vehicle should bounce up and settle down. If it continues to bounce the shocks are worn out.
2)Drive over a small bump at a speed of 20 mph and the wheel should lift to it and settle down without a thud.(the thud is the rubber snubber)
3)At 60 mph the vehicle should rise and fall quickly over a dip, then stabilize itself after 2 rebounds..If it does not the vehicle will feel like it is floating and this makes the steering very unstable.
4)On rough roads does your vehicle shake and vibrate after you go a short distance? Well if it does, it is because the oil in the shock is overheating and starting to foam. That problem can be corrected with a nitrogen gas shock.
5)The last is to look at the shock or strut and see if it is leaking oil,if so it has no compression or rebound.
If your Nissan failed any of these tests either the shocks are worn out are mismatched for your vehicle. Some of the best shocks and struts on the market are Bilstein’s Monroe, and KYBs . And remember that maintaining the shocks and or struts on your Nissan is very important to the handling and tire wear on any Nissan. If you have any questions, please post them here or contact me at thewrightimport@gmail.com

Thursday, September 3, 2009

How do I check my Brake fluid

The brake fluid reservoir is usually located on the top of the engine in front of the steering column (on the engine side of the firewall). Many reservoirs have the fluid level indicator on the side. Check the fluid level. Read your owner’s manual to determine the proper fluid to add. Add fluid if needed. If level seems exceptionally low to you, you may have a brake issue occurring. We recommend you take the vehicle to a repair center for inspection.

**INSTALLATION OF THE WRONG FLUID COULD RESULT IN SEVERE DAMAGE TO THE BRAKING SYSTEM. SUCH AS, ALL OF THE RUBBER IN THE BRAKING SYSTEM SWELLING UP AND CAUSING THE BRAKES TO SUDDENLY LOCK UP IN MOTION***

BRAKE INSPECTION:

When getting your brakes inspected at a repair center tell them to tell you how much material is left by 32nd not by percents. Pads and shoes are not standard, thus making it virtually impossible to know what percent they really are.

EXAMPLE:

A pad that starts at 12/32 and is now 6/32 has “50” percent left, but what if that pad started at 14/32 (this pad only has 42 percent left), or if it starts at 10/32 (this pad has 60 percent left).

It is virtually impossible to know what the pads started at, so it is virtually impossible to know what the percent was / is.

When your pads are down between 2/32 and 3/32 you should replace them.

Brake shoes tend to start at 3/32.

Remember you have pads on the front and rear side of each rotor. A proper brake inspection will tell you the 32nd for all the pads.

BRAKE FLUID FLUSH:

We use FASCAR test strips to tell you the condition of you brake fluid. We will show you the test strip and the fascar scale to help you understand the test.

Contaminated / broken down fluid does not offer proper lubrication / cushioning for brake parts and may lead to early failure of braking components.

Can I use a Brake Strip to test my own brake fluid?
To be able to test your own brake fluid you must be able to find the master cylinder. In today's cars sometimes this is more difficult then you would think. The master cylinder cap should be identifies with the writing 'DOT 3 Brake fluid only' or DOT 4 Brake fluid only'. Contact your local Autozone store. You can also request a test from your local service facility. Remember this is new, so he may not be up-to-speed yet on this new technology.
What do I do if my shop tries to sell me a brake flush based on color, moisture or time/mileage?

Realize that most automotive service facilities are honest and trying to do the right thing for you and your vehicle. In most cases, unnecessary brake fluid replacement recommendations are based on color, time/mileage, moisture or boiling point and are not intentionally to deceive you. It is more likely they are not aware of the new MAP standard or FASCAR technology.**Testing for copper NOT water**


Color - If your shop recommends brake fluid replacement based on color, it is likely that he is just following 'tradition'. It has been determined by brake fluid manufacturers and experts that you cannot tell brake fluid condition by color. There is no science or standard to justify brake fluid replacement based on color or it 'looks dirty'. One common tactic is to show a sample of new fluid compared to a sample of your fluid. Again there is no basis or foundation that the 'color' means the fluid should be replaced. Please be patient, the shop is not likely trying to intentionally deceive you, and they may not be informed on this new technology. The only justifiable reason to suggest replacement based on color is if the standard brake fluid has been replaced with the wrong fluid and the fluid is red or purple in color.

Moisture - A recommendation based on moisture also falls into the same category as color. It has been a tradition. If the shop uses a boiling point tester and tells you that your brake fluid has a low boiling point, realize there is no standard for 'used' brake fluid boiling point.
Time/Mileage - If your vehicle has O.E. (BMW, Mercedes...) brake fluid recommended maintenance based on time/mileage, your technician is following the MAP guideline. Many shops still use Brake Strip because it will help clarify service within maintenance parameters.
I failed a Brake Strip test soon after I had my brake fluid replaced?

Occasionally we hear this statement, 'they told me something must be wrong with the strip because they just changed my brake fluid'. FASCAR Brake Strips never gives a false reading. It tests for copper so there is no way to 'fake' the test.
The answer is very simple. There is still copper in the brake fluid. The problem is the type of brake flush that was performed. If they use vacuum, gravity or pedal flushing, they probably won't be able to properly flush the contamination out of the brake system.

WARNING:

FLUID FLUSHES ARE DESIGNED FOR PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE PURPOSES. THEY ARE MOST EFFECTIVE WHEN PERFORMED ON A REGULAR BASIS. WHEN SERVICE IS PERFORMED ON A NEGLECTED SYSTEM IT MAY LEAD TO LEAKAGE OR OTHER PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS. THIS IS A RESULT OF DAMAGE THAT IS ALREADY THERE. IT BECOMES NOTABLE AFTER A FLUID FLUSH BECAUSE A FLUSH REMOVES THE “GOO” / SEALER FROM THE SYSTEM. IF YOU HAVE A HOLE IN YOU SYSTEM THAT IS SEALED WITH GOO IT WILL OPEN AND YOU WILL SEE A LEAK AND / OR HAVE PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS.

THIS IS THE FAULT OF NEGLECT; NOT THE FAULT OF THE CENTER FLUSHING YOUR SYSTEM.

Change your own drive, serpentine belt

Do you remember the screams of protest when serpentine belts were dumped on us by the automobile industry? One broken belt and everything's dead? They are an absolute nightmare to replace? They cost a fortune? Now we wonder why they weren't invented sooner. The old "fan" belts were a pain
to replace and tension. Slippage from being too loose was annoyingly common and any one of them would leave you just as stranded when broken.

First of all, do you have a serpentine belt and does it need replacing? A serpentine belt is much wider than the conventional "v" belts and it will have a number of ribs on the inside edge. It will have the distinction of being the only belt under the hood. Don't be alarmed if it has a few cracks on the inside edge. Once these cracks occur in 1/8 inch intervals, it's time for a "pre-emptive transplant".

If your vehicle uses a serpentine belt with five ribs, don't settle for a four rib replacement (even though it will fit and work). Some cheaper brands will consolidate several lengths to reduce inventory and part numbers. It may be wise to pay for a name brand or dealer replacement for the simple reason of getting a better fit.

The single most important step to replace a serpentine belt is to ensure you know the path of the belt BEFORE you remove it. It looks easy to remember but trust me, when the belt is off, it's easy for uncertainty to creep in. The vehicle will have a diagram under the hood. Make sure it's not missing. Make a sketch of the path either in a notebook or in chalk on the shop floor. Better yet, take a couple photos with your digital camera.
Gone are the days of searching for which of those grease encased bolts loosens the belt, prying until your eyes bulge to apply tension and simultaneously re-tighten the bolts. And then do it all over again after determining the belt is now either too loose or tight. These fond memories
can now be left to restoration and vintage car projects. All serpentine belt equipped vehicles will have a tensioner wheel. Whether it's a bolt, hex, or torx fastener, applying quite a bit of force (often 80 pounds or more) in a counter clockwise direction is standard. Just slip the belt off the handiest pulley and release the tensioner.

Before installing the new belt you should check the condition and alignment of the pulleys. They may be out of alignment diagonally (crooked) or parallel to each other. Either situation may have caused premature wear of your belt and will have to be remedied. In some cases, washers can be used as shims, but replacement of the component is often required. Carefully check each pulley for nicks or sharp edges. The tensioner wheel itself is a common source of failure. Make sure that it works and that it spins freely and quietly. There will be at least one idler wheel, which should also spin without noise or sideways movement. The idler wheel is normally smooth and will allow the belt to slip off if it's in poor condition. The bearings on these devices endure a punishing life and will wear out. So do the bearings on the alternator, air conditioning compressor and water pump. Grease and oil are a death sentence to any belt. If it exists anywhere on the serpentine belt path is must be cleaned. Just as importantly, the source must be isolated and fixed.

To install the new belt, start at the lowest pulley and work upwards toward the tensioner wheel. Be extremely careful to avoid dragging the new belt through grease and dirt. Make certain the ribs on the belt align perfectly to the grooves on each pulley. A mistake here will doom your new belt to a premature death. Finally, pull back on the tensioner and slip the belt on. Strictly avoid releasing the tensioner with fingers between the belt and a pulley. Most tension wheels will have indicator marks. Make sure the new belt is within the min and max. ranges. One last thing to check: the new belt will fit tighter and will follow a slightly different path than the old one. Ensure the belt has a clear route to follow. Once in awhile a loose bolt or bent piece of tin will interfere.

Before throwing the old belt out, strongly consider keeping it in your emergency toolbox (assuming you've replaced the belt before it exploded into shreds). A spare belt might really save your day in the future. Or, you can sell it for a small fortune to a less prepared motorist in the middle of nowhere. Just kidding of course.

How do I change my vehicle's battery

Most people can change their own car battery. The most difficult part of changing your batter will be lifting it out of the vehicle once you have disconnected the battery terminals, primarily because it weighs so much. By following these simple steps, you will be able to change your own battery no matter where you are.

In order to change your battery you will need battery cleaning solution, anti-corrosion solution, a socket and ratchet, a combination wrench, a wire brush, a new battery, and a screwdriver.

1) Turn off your engine, lift the hood, and locate the battery. Take off the negative (black) battery cable first by loosening the connecting nut with a wrench. Twist and pull the battery cable off of the battery with upwards motion or pry it up with a tool or screwdriver if it is stuck.

2) Repeat this same method with the positive (red) cable.

3) Use a socket and ratchet or a combination wrench to remove the hold-down clamp on the battery, if one exists.

4) Remove the battery from the battery tray. Remember, batteries are very heavy, so hold onto the bottom with both hands. Set it down on the ground to ensure your safety and the safety of your vehicle.

5) Use a wire brush and water to clean away any corrosion from the hold-down clamp and the battery tray. Clean the battery cable connectors with the wire brush as well, but without the water or other liquid. If the connectors have heavy corrosion, you may use a special battery-cleaning solution that is available at most auto-parts stores.

6) Place a new battery in the battery tray and secure it with the hold-down clamp. Re-attach and tighten down the positive (red) battery cable first, then the negative. You may choose to spray the terminal ends with an optional anti-corrosion solution, which will prevent most corrosion collections. Check that the connection is tight, because if the cables move at all, the vehicle may not start.

Most car batteries have at least a 60-month warranty. If it fails within that time period, you can get it replaced for free.

Clean air filter is key to engine performance

Checking you air filter on a regular basis is key to engine performance. all vehicles have one and it is easy to check and or replace.
A clogged air filter affects your car's performance on a number of levels. It robs your car of power, something you need every ounce of when you're navigating a freeway on-ramp. Perhaps more important is the effect a clogged air filter has on your gas mileage. It takes 10 minutes and usually costs less than $20. These easy steps will get you there and back in no time flat.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 10 minutes
Here's How:

1. Locate and Open the Filter Housing
With your hood open and safely propped, locate the air filter housing. On any car made in the last 20 years or so, it'll be in a black plastic case with metal clips on the sides. You'll also see a black tube going into the plastic case on most cars. Flip the little metal clips downward. If they are tight, slide a flat-head screwdriver in between the clip and the case from the top, and pop it off. Some housings will also have a nut holding them from the top.
2. Squirrel Your Nuts
If you removed nuts from the top of your filter housing, be sure to put them in a safe secure location. You don't want to lose these! In the vehicle used in our example, the top of the filter housing comes off, so we put them in the housing top where they couldn't roll away. You can even stick them in your pocket. Whatever you do, put them someplace safe.
3. Remove the Old Filter
Your filter (round or rectangular) will be made of lots of folded paper surrounded by rubber. Before you remove the dirty filter, take a moment to note how it sits in the housing so you can be sure to put the new one in correctly. Carefully pull it out, being sure that nothing falls into the bottom of the box. I've seen sticks, trash and some really big bugs caught in the filter. If it looks anything like the filter in the above photo, you know you're doing the right thing.
4. Put the New Filter in Place
Put the new, clean filter in place, being sure to put it in the same configuration as the one you removed (as in which side is up, etc.). Don't worry about making a mistake here, if you have the filter in upside down you won't be able to get the top closed. Also be sure to press the rubber gasket of the filter all the way into its groove in the housing. If you find the cover hard to get back on, re-check this as it's often the culprit.
5. Empowerment!
That's it! You just saved money on gas, and saved a nice bit of cash by installing the air filter yourself.

Automotive preventive maintenance is key to engine and vehicle performance

Reasons to perform routine Preventive Maintenance on your vehicle

Preventive Maintenance is a schedule of planned maintenance actions aimed at the prevention of breakdowns and failures. The primary goal of preventive maintenance is to help prolong the life of the vehicle and reduce vehicle failures therefore providing a worry free driving experience. Automotive technicians say the key to keeping vehicles running well today and down the road, is routine preventive maintenance. Many drivers tend to stall when it comes to keeping up with some everyday automotive basics. Maintenance

A recent survey by the Car Care Council found:

* 38 percent of cars had low or dirty engine oil.
* 54 percent had low tire pressure.
* 28 percent had inadequate cooling protection.
* 19 percent needed new belts.
* 16 percent had dirty air filters.
* 10 percent had low or contaminated brake fluid.
Some of the most important preventive maintenance steps you can do yourself and save you some time and money. Here is a quick list of some of the most common preventive maintenance steps that you should be able to handle yourself.
Airfilter: Check it every month. Replace it when it becomes dirty or as part of a tune -up. It is easy to reach, right under the big metal 'lid', in a carbureted engine; or in a rectangular box at the forward end of the air in a duct hose assembly.
Battery: Extreme caution should be taken while handling a battery since it can produce explosive gases. It is advisable not to smoke, create a spark or light a match near a battery. Always wear protective glasses and gloves.
Belts: Inspect belts and hoses smoothly. Replace glazed, worn or frayed belts. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Brake Fluid: Check the brake fluid monthly. First wipe dirt from the brake master cylinder reservoir lid. Pry off the retainer clip and remove the lid or unscrew the plastic lid, depending on which type your vehicle has. If you need fluid, add the improved type and check for possible leaks throughout the system. Do not overfill.
Engine Oil; Check the oil after every fill up. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean. Insert it fully and remove it again. If it is low, add oil. To maintain peak performance, the oil should be changed every 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Replace the oil filter with every oil change.
Exhaust: Look underneath for loose or broken exhaust clamps and supports. Check for holes in muffler or pipes. Replace the rusted or damaged parts. Have the emission checked at once per year for compliance with local laws.
Hoses: Inspect the hoses and belts monthly. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.
Lights: Make sure that all your lights are clean and working, including the brake lights, turn signals and emergency flashers. Keep spare bulbs and fuses in your vehicle.
Oil Filter: To maintain peak performance, change oil every 3 months or 3,000 kms whichever comes first. Replace oil filter with every oil change.
Power Steering Fluid: Check the power steering fluid level once per month. Check it by removing the reservoir dipstick. If the level is down, add fluid and inspect the pump and hoses for leaks.
Shock Absorbers: Look for signs of oil seepage on shock absorbers, test shock action by bouncing the car up and down. The car should stop bouncing when you step back. Worn or leaking shocks should be replaced. Always replace shock absorbers in pairs.
Tires: Keep tires inflated to recommended pressure. Check for cuts, bulges and excessive tread wear. Uneven wear indicates tires are misaligned or out of balance.
Transmission Fluid: Check transmission fluid monthly with engine warm and running, and the parking brake on. Shift to drive, then to park. Remove dipstick, wipe dry, insert it and remove it again. Add the approved type fluid, if needed. Never overfill.
Washer Fluid: Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir full. Use some of it to clean off the wiper blades.
Wiper Blades: Inspect the windscreen wiper blades whenever you clean your windshield. Do not wait until the rubber is worn or brittle to replace them. They should be replaced at least once per year, and more often if smearing occurs. Remember, preventive maintenance is easy and you will benefit from it in the long run by saving yourself time and money at the repair shop.
Suspension
Spark plug wires
Exhaust and convertors
K&n oil and air filters
Oxygen or o2 sensor
Brakes
Step by step instructions on how to change your own spark plugs and wires
Keep your engine properly tuned
Isuzu suspension
Volvo suspension
Toyota suspension
Subaru suspension
Ford Suspension
Chevrolet suspension
When Should I replace my shocks and struts