Sunday, October 23, 2011
Ceramic Brake pads Offer longer brake pad life
Ceramic pads also extend brake life compared to most conventional lining materials. Akebono and Raybestos both say their durability testing has shown significantly longer life with no sacrifice in noise control, rotor life or braking performance when ceramic pads are used compared to other friction materials.
This is what bad brake pad can do to your rotors. Replacing your brakes at the proper time can save you hundreds in costly repairs.
How ceramic pads differ from regular metallic pads
One of the main differences between ceramic-enhanced friction materials and semi-metallic brake linings is that ceramic pads contain no steel wool or fibers. Steel provides strength and conducts heat away from rotors, but it also makes pads noisy. Steel also acts like an abrasive and causes rotor wear. Substituting ceramic materials and copper fibers for steel allows ceramic pads to handle the high brake temperatures with less heat fade, to recovery quickly, to experience less wear on both the pads and rotors, and to virtually eliminate noise. Annoying brake squeal is eliminated because the ceramic-enhanced compound dampens noise and moves vibrations to a frequency beyond our range of hearing.
Other features that help make ceramic pads extra quiet include chamfers, slots and insulator shims. These features are also found on other types of pads, but may not be used on all applications.
Chamfers are angled or beveled edges on the leading and trailing ends of the pad that reduce "tip-in" noise when the brakes are first applied. Chamfers also reduce the surface area of the brakes slightly, which increases the clamping force applied by the pads against the rotors. This further helps to dampen sound-producing vibrations.
Slots are grooves cut vertically, diagonally, or horizontally in the pads to reduce noise by changing the frequency of vibration from an audible level to a higher, inaudible frequency beyond the range of the human ear. Slots also help reduce brake fade by providing a passage for gases and dust to escape at high brake temperatures.
Insulator shims provide a dampening layer to absorb and dissipate vibrations before they can cause noise.
Other features that help make ceramic pads extra quiet include chamfers, slots and insulator shims. These features are also found on other types of pads, but may not be used on all applications.
Chamfers are angled or beveled edges on the leading and trailing ends of the pad that reduce "tip-in" noise when the brakes are first applied. Chamfers also reduce the surface area of the brakes slightly, which increases the clamping force applied by the pads against the rotors. This further helps to dampen sound-producing vibrations.
Slots are grooves cut vertically, diagonally, or horizontally in the pads to reduce noise by changing the frequency of vibration from an audible level to a higher, inaudible frequency beyond the range of the human ear. Slots also help reduce brake fade by providing a passage for gases and dust to escape at high brake temperatures.
Insulator shims provide a dampening layer to absorb and dissipate vibrations before they can cause noise.
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Chevrolet, Chevy, GMC, Jimmy, S10, Engine will not turn over when trying to start
Chevrolet, GMC, Jimmy, S10, Engine will not turn over when trying to start:
Simple diagnostic procedures to try when your engine will not turn over when trying to start.
1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable terminals at the
battery; tighten cable clamp and/or clean off corrosion as necessary.
2 Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable ends are clean and tight on the battery posts,
turn the key to the On position and switch on the headlights or windshield wipers. If they
won't run, the battery is discharged.
3 Automatic transmission not engaged in park (P) or Neutral (N) or neutral safety switch
faulty. P) or Neutral (N) or neutral safety switch
faulty.
4 On manual transmissions, clutch pedal not depressed or clutch start switch rnalfunc-
tioningissions, clutch pedal not depressed or clutch start switch rnalfunc-
tioning
5 Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit. Inspect all wires and con-
nectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch (on steering column). , loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit. Inspect all wires and con-
nectors at the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch (on steering column).
6 Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear. If manual transmission, place transmission in gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter and inspect pinion and flywheel at earliest convenience. ion jammed in flywheel ring gear. If manual transmission, place transmission in gear and rock the vehicle to manually turn the engine. Remove starter and inspect pinion and flywheel at earliest convenience.
7 Starter solenoid faulty
8 Starter motor faulty
9 Ignition switch faulty
10 Engine seized. Try to turn the crankshaft
with a large socket and breaker bar on the pulley bolt.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, adjust, check, timing
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, adjust, check, timing step by step guide with full pictures:
Refer to illustrations 35.4 and 35,5
Note: It is imperative that the procedures included on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label be followed when adjusting the ignition timing, The label will include all information concerning preliminary steps to be performed before adjusting the timing, as well as the timing specifications,
1: Locate the VECI label under the hood and read through and perform all preliminary instructions concerning ignition timing,
2: Locate the timing mark pointer plate located beside the crankshaft pulley, The 0 mark represents top dead center (TDC), The pointer plate will be marked in either one or two-degree increments and should have the
proper timing mark for your particular engine noted. If not, count back from the 0 mark the
correct number of degrees BTOC, as noted on the VECI label, and mark the plate,
3: Locate the notch on the crankshaft balancer
of pulley and mark it with chalk or a dab of paint so it will be visible under the timing light
4: With the ignition off, connect the pickup lead of the timing light to the number one spark plug wire (see illustration). Do not pierce the wire or attempt to insert a wire between the boot and the wire. Connect the timing light power leads according to the manufacturer's instructions. Note: Some engines incorporate a magnetic timing probe hole for use with special electronic timing equipment. Consult the manufacturer's instructions for proper use of this equipment.
5: Start the engine, aim the timing light at the timing mark by the crankshaft pulley and note which timing mark the notch on the pulley is lining up with (see illustration).
6: If the notch is not lining up with the correct mark, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and rotate the distributor until the notch is lined up with the correct timing mark.
7: Retighten the hold-down bolt and recheck the timing.
8: Turn off the engine and disconnect the. timing light Reconnect the number one spark plug wire, if removed.
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, adjust, check, timing
Note: It is imperative that the procedures included on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label be followed when adjusting the ignition timing, The label will include all information concerning preliminary steps to be performed before adjusting the timing, as well as the timing specifications,
1: Locate the VECI label under the hood and read through and perform all preliminary instructions concerning ignition timing,
2: Locate the timing mark pointer plate located beside the crankshaft pulley, The 0 mark represents top dead center (TDC), The pointer plate will be marked in either one or two-degree increments and should have the
proper timing mark for your particular engine noted. If not, count back from the 0 mark the
correct number of degrees BTOC, as noted on the VECI label, and mark the plate,
of pulley and mark it with chalk or a dab of paint so it will be visible under the timing light
4: With the ignition off, connect the pickup lead of the timing light to the number one spark plug wire (see illustration). Do not pierce the wire or attempt to insert a wire between the boot and the wire. Connect the timing light power leads according to the manufacturer's instructions. Note: Some engines incorporate a magnetic timing probe hole for use with special electronic timing equipment. Consult the manufacturer's instructions for proper use of this equipment.
5: Start the engine, aim the timing light at the timing mark by the crankshaft pulley and note which timing mark the notch on the pulley is lining up with (see illustration).
6: If the notch is not lining up with the correct mark, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and rotate the distributor until the notch is lined up with the correct timing mark.
7: Retighten the hold-down bolt and recheck the timing.
8: Turn off the engine and disconnect the. timing light Reconnect the number one spark plug wire, if removed.
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, adjust, check, timing
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, how to replace spark plug, gap
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, how to replace spark plug, gap. Step by step guide with pictures.
1 The spark plugs are located on each side of V6 engines and on the left (driver's) side of four-cylinder engines. They may or may not be easily accessible for removal. If the vehicle is equipped with air-conditioning or power steering, some of the plugs may be tricky to remove. Special extension or swivel
tools may be necessary. Make a survey under the hood to determine if special tools will be needed.
3 The best approach when replacing the spark plugs is to purchase the new ones in advance, adjust them to the proper gap and replace them one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, be sure to obtain the correct plug type for your particular engine. This
4 Allow the engine to cool completely before attempting to remove any of the plugs. While you're waiting for the engine to cool, check the new plugs for defects and adjust the gaps.
7: If compressed air is available, use it to blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug hole. A common bicycle pump will also work. The idea here is to eliminate the possibility of debris falling into the cylinder as the spark plug is removed.
8: Place the spark plug socket over the plug and remove it from the engine by turning it in a counterclockwise direction.
9: Cornpare the spark plug to those shown in the photos on the inside back cover of this manual to get an indication of the general running condition of the engine.
10: Thread one of the new plugs into the hole until you can no longer turn it with your fingers, then tighten it with a torque wrench (if available) or the ratchet. It might be a good idea to slip a short length of rubber hose over the end of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place (see illustration). The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread. in the hole - this will prevent damaged
threads and the accompanying repair costs.
11 Before pushing the spark plug wire onto the end of the plug, inspect it following the
procedures outlined in Section 37.
12 Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the boot until it's seated on the spark plug.
13 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires.
1 The spark plugs are located on each side of V6 engines and on the left (driver's) side of four-cylinder engines. They may or may not be easily accessible for removal. If the vehicle is equipped with air-conditioning or power steering, some of the plugs may be tricky to remove. Special extension or swivel
2 In most cases, the tools necessary for spark plug replacement include a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet (spark plug sockets are padded inside to prevent damage to the porcelain insulators on the new plugs), various extensions and a gap gauge
to check and adjust the gaps on the new plugs (see illustration).
A special plug wire removal tool is available for separating the wire boots from the spark plugs, but it isn't absolutely necessary. A torque wrench should be used to tighten the new plugs.
3 The best approach when replacing the spark plugs is to purchase the new ones in advance, adjust them to the proper gap and replace them one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, be sure to obtain the correct plug type for your particular engine. This
information can be found on the Vehicle Emission Control Information label located under the hood, and in the owner's manual . If differences exist between the plug specified on the emissions label and in this Chapter's Specifications or the owner's manual, assume that the emissions label is correct
4 Allow the engine to cool completely before attempting to remove any of the plugs. While you're waiting for the engine to cool, check the new plugs for defects and adjust the gaps.
5 The gap is checked by inserting the proper thickness gauge between the electrodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration).
The gap between the electrodes should be the same as the one specified on the Vehicle
6: With the engine cool, remove the spark plug wire from one spark plug. Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire - do not pull on the wire. A plug wire removal tool should be used if available (see illustration).
7: If compressed air is available, use it to blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug hole. A common bicycle pump will also work. The idea here is to eliminate the possibility of debris falling into the cylinder as the spark plug is removed.
8: Place the spark plug socket over the plug and remove it from the engine by turning it in a counterclockwise direction.
9: Cornpare the spark plug to those shown in the photos on the inside back cover of this manual to get an indication of the general running condition of the engine.
10: Thread one of the new plugs into the hole until you can no longer turn it with your fingers, then tighten it with a torque wrench (if available) or the ratchet. It might be a good idea to slip a short length of rubber hose over the end of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place (see illustration). The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it, but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread. in the hole - this will prevent damaged
threads and the accompanying repair costs.
11 Before pushing the spark plug wire onto the end of the plug, inspect it following the
procedures outlined in Section 37.
12 Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the boot until it's seated on the spark plug.
13 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires.
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, how to check or replace fuel filter
Chevy, Gmc, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, how to check or replace fuel filter, step by step instructions with pictures.
2 The job should be done with the engine cold (after sitting at least three hours). The necessary tools include open-end wrenches to fit the fuel line nuts. Flare nut wrenches (which wrap around the nut) should be used if available. In addition, you have to obtain the replacement filter (make sure it's for your specific vehicle and engine) and some clean rags.
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly. If vacuum hoses must be disconnected, be sure to note their positions and/or tag them to ensure that they are reinstalled correctly.
4 Follow the fuel line from the fuel pump to the point where it enters the carburetor. In most cases the fuel line will be metal all the way from the fuel pump to the carburetor.
5 Place some rags under the fuel inlet fittings to catch spilled fuel as the fittings are disconnected.
6 With the proper size wrench, hold the fuel inlet nut immediately next to the carburetor body. Now loosen the fitting at the end of the metal fuel line. Make sure the fuel inlet nut next to the carburetor is held securely while the fuel line is disconnected (see illustration).
7 After the fuel line is disconnected, move it aside better access to the inlet nut. Don't crimp the fuel line.
B Unscrew the fuel inlet nut, which was previously held steady. As this fitting is drawn away from the carburetor body, be careful not to lose the thin washer-type gasket on the nut or the spring, located behind the fuel filter. Also pay close attention to how the filter is installed (see illustration).
9 Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they're the same length and design.
10 Reinstall the spring in the carburetor body.
11 Place the filter in position ( a gasket is usually supplied with the new filter) and tighten the nut, but be careful not to over tighten it as the threads can strip easily, causing fuel leaks. Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel inlet nut, again using caution to avoid cross-threading the nut. Use a backup wrench on the fuel inlet nut while tightening the fuel line fitting.
12 Start the engine and check carefully for leaks. If the fuel line fitting leaks, disconnect it and check for stripped or damaged threads. If the fuel line fitting has stripped threads, remove the entire line and have a
repair shop install a new fitting. If the threads look all right, purchase some thread sealing tape thread sealing
tape and wrap:'tne''tt'l s with it. Inlet nut repair kits are available at most auto parts stores to overcome leaking at the fuel inlet nut.
Fuel-injected models
Refer to illustration 18. 15
Warning: See Chapter 4 and relieve the fuel system
pressure before proceeding.
13 Fuel-injected engines employ an in-line
fuel filter. The fuel filter is located under the vehicle.
14 With the engine cold, place a container,
newspapers or rags under the fuel filter.
1"5 Use wrenches .to disconnect the fuel
lines and detach the filter from the frame (see
illustration).
16 Install the new filter by reversing the removal procedure. Make sure the arrow on the filter points toward the engine, not the fuel tank. Tighten the fittings securely, but don't cross thread them
For more tips and tricks Please go here.
 |
Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system.
Carbureted models:
Refer to illustrations 18.6 and 18.8
1 On these models the fuel filter is located inside the fuel inlet nut at the carburetor. It's made of either pleated paper or porous bronze and cannot be cleaned or reused.
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly. If vacuum hoses must be disconnected, be sure to note their positions and/or tag them to ensure that they are reinstalled correctly.
4 Follow the fuel line from the fuel pump to the point where it enters the carburetor. In most cases the fuel line will be metal all the way from the fuel pump to the carburetor.
5 Place some rags under the fuel inlet fittings to catch spilled fuel as the fittings are disconnected.
6 With the proper size wrench, hold the fuel inlet nut immediately next to the carburetor body. Now loosen the fitting at the end of the metal fuel line. Make sure the fuel inlet nut next to the carburetor is held securely while the fuel line is disconnected (see illustration).
7 After the fuel line is disconnected, move it aside better access to the inlet nut. Don't crimp the fuel line.
B Unscrew the fuel inlet nut, which was previously held steady. As this fitting is drawn away from the carburetor body, be careful not to lose the thin washer-type gasket on the nut or the spring, located behind the fuel filter. Also pay close attention to how the filter is installed (see illustration).
9 Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they're the same length and design.
10 Reinstall the spring in the carburetor body.
11 Place the filter in position ( a gasket is usually supplied with the new filter) and tighten the nut, but be careful not to over tighten it as the threads can strip easily, causing fuel leaks. Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel inlet nut, again using caution to avoid cross-threading the nut. Use a backup wrench on the fuel inlet nut while tightening the fuel line fitting.
12 Start the engine and check carefully for leaks. If the fuel line fitting leaks, disconnect it and check for stripped or damaged threads. If the fuel line fitting has stripped threads, remove the entire line and have a
repair shop install a new fitting. If the threads look all right, purchase some thread sealing tape thread sealing
tape and wrap:'tne''tt'l s with it. Inlet nut repair kits are available at most auto parts stores to overcome leaking at the fuel inlet nut.
Fuel-injected models
Refer to illustration 18. 15
Warning: See Chapter 4 and relieve the fuel system
pressure before proceeding.
13 Fuel-injected engines employ an in-line
fuel filter. The fuel filter is located under the vehicle.
14 With the engine cold, place a container,
newspapers or rags under the fuel filter.
1"5 Use wrenches .to disconnect the fuel
lines and detach the filter from the frame (see
illustration).
16 Install the new filter by reversing the removal procedure. Make sure the arrow on the filter points toward the engine, not the fuel tank. Tighten the fittings securely, but don't cross thread them
For more tips and tricks Please go here.
Monday, June 27, 2011
"Bumblebee" Edition Chevrolet Camaro Revealed - FoxNews.com
Fanboys and girls in the U.S. have to wait another day or two to get their first look at “Transformers: Dark of the Moon” in theaters, but they can start salivating over Chevrolet’s latest Bumblebee-look Camaro today.
The appearance package includes black rally stripes that run the length of the car, a unique rear spoiler, black 20-inch wheels with Autobot logos and Autobot shields on the front fenders. The interior features yellow-stitched leather upholstery with logos on the front headrests and center console
Bumblebee Camaro
Chevrolet’s relationship with the Transformers franchise began with the release of the first film in the series in 2007, which featured a concept version of the Camaro in the role of Bumblebee, two years before the car entered production. The automaker first offered a Transformers edition Camaro in 2009 in concert with the release of “Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen,” the same year that the fifth-generation of the model went on sale after a seven-year hiatus.
Ceramic is better than metallic brake pads, In my honest opnion
Ceramic brake pads are popular with car owners that want that like-new brake performance, they are quiet, long lasting, low dusting and provide safe sure stops. They handle heat much better than most nonasbestos organic (NAO) friction materials, and are quieter and kinder to rotors than most semi-metallic friction materials.
Ceramic brake pads first appeared in the early 90s. Some vehicle manufacturers began using ceramic-based disc brake pads in place of conventional semi-metallic pads to address customer complaints about brake noise, dust and wear. Many of these ceramic pads were supplied by Akebono Automotive Disc Brake Pads)
. Following the OEM lead, Raybestos Brakes, and other major aftermarket brake suppliers introduced their own ceramic-based friction materials. The aftermarket ceramic pads are designed to replace OEM ceramic disc brake pads and to upgrade brake performance on vehicles that were not originally equipped with ceramic-based pads.
HOW CERAMIC PADS DIFFER FROM ORDINARY PADS
CERAMIC PADS REDUCE BRAKE DUST
LONGER PAD LIFE
CERAMIC PAD APPLICATIONS
Ceramic pads can be installed on any vehicle that is originally-equipped with OEM ceramic pads, or on vehicles that are equipped with Nonasbestos Organic (NAO) linings. Ceramic pads are NOT recommended to replace semi-metallic pads, especially on larger, heavier vehicles. On trucks and large SUVs, semi-metallic linings are typically needed to handle higher loads and braking temperatures.
It seems that almost every major aftermarket and original equipment brake supplier these days has some type of ceramic-based friction material in one of their product lines. Raybestos, one of the first aftermarket suppliers to offer a ceramic product, uses ceramics in their "Quiet Stop" line of premium disc brake pads. Akebono, a pioneer in the development of ceramic friction materials and leading OEM supplier of ceramic pads also sells an aftermarket version of their ceramic pads under various product lines. Bendix, who is best known for their "TitaniuMetallic" pads (which do not contain ceramics), also introduced a new line of ceramic pads a couple of years ago called "CF3." So is Bosch. Bosch Premium Pads have become Bosch Ceramic Pads. NAPA also sells ceramic pads under various names, including "Ceramix". ProMaster "Certanium" linings use a blend of ceramic and titanium fibers.
Why so much emphasis on ceramics? Because the aftermarket follows the original equipment market, and the domestic and Japanese OEMs have been using ceramic linings for years on many vehicles. One supplier estimated that some type of ceramic pad is now used on 50 to 60% of all late model vehicles. If you count only those applications that use "real" ceramic pads (those where ceramics are a primary ingredient), the figure drops to about 40%, but is still a significant portion of the new vehicle fleet.
The only domestic vehicle manufacturer who has not used much ceramics is Chrysler. They have not used ceramic pads on their domestic-made cars and trucks, but have been using ceramics on their Mitsubishi-made vehicles. However, starting in 2004, Chrysler switched to ceramic pads on certain models.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Honda P0420
Basic Diagnostics for A DTC P0420 On a Honda, is a trouble code on OBD-II equipped vehicles. All vehicles from 1996-newer sold in North America support this generic powertrain code. This code is a pretty common one and this site is here to help the average do-it-yourself (DIY) car owner (like you) troubleshoot, diagnose, and fix their vehicle themselves when presented with a P0420 code, saving money.
If your car has multiple trouble codes (DTC's), it's always a good idea to fix them in the order they come up on the code reader. For example, if you have these codes - P0300, P0420, P0171, then you're going to want to tackle the P0300 Random Misfire code first (resolve it), and then tackle the P0420 code, etc. The reason for that is that the first code could be causing further DTCs to be set.
If you've come to this site you most likely already know that you have a P0420 code. To start, we strongly recommend you seek the services of a professional mechanic/technician if you have any doubts as to whether you can perform the repair! Also, be sure to follow proper diagnostic procedures to determine whether a part has failed. If you simply change parts hoping it will solve the problem, you're really just guessing and wasting money. This site is here for information purposes only and is meant to help you learn more about the dtc and decide if you can tackle the repair yourself. It is not intended as car repair advice.
OK, so what does a P0420 code mean anyway?
As mentioned above, the code's description is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). OK, now tell me that again in plain English please.... let's break it down: the catalyst system being referred to is your three-way catalytic converter; so the catalytic converter is not working properly (i.e. it's not efficient). Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine which contains cylinder #1. On inline engines such as 4 & 5 cylinder engines, there is only one bank. So, to really simply things let's just say that the efficiency of the catalytic converter and/or exhaust pipe and/or O2 sensor is not so great.
There are no symptoms so why should I fix it?
So what is causing my P0420 code?
There are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly. The other likely thing is the rear O2 (oxygen) sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.
OK, so I want to diagnose things, what do I do next?
The easiest thing to do first is a visual check of things. Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those syptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement. Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you'll want to check the operation of the O2 sensor. To do that, you'll need access to a scan tool or oscilliscope. Check that the waveform is pretty steady. If the reading fluctuates then the sensor is likely bad and will need to be replaced.
On some vehicles such as some Subaru models an ECM reflash will fix the problem. As you can see a P0420 can be caused by many things, so if you have any doubts as to whether you can fix the problem yourself, please seek the advice of a professional technician. Good luck with your honda.
A P0420 code will cause no symptoms aside from the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will illuminate. The reality is there is still something wrong and your Honda needs attention in order to be in excellent running condition. A poorly maintained Honda will run less efficiently, burn more gas, and cost you more money in the long run. Plus, if your check engine light is on for a P0420 code and you decide not to fix it, another more serious code could be triggered and you'd never know. The MIL lights up whether you have one code or ten! While I have your attention, don't forget to do oil changes as the owner's manual schedules and keep those tires on your Honda inflated to the proper PSI.
If your car has multiple trouble codes (DTC's), it's always a good idea to fix them in the order they come up on the code reader. For example, if you have these codes - P0300, P0420, P0171, then you're going to want to tackle the P0300 Random Misfire code first (resolve it), and then tackle the P0420 code, etc. The reason for that is that the first code could be causing further DTCs to be set.
If you've come to this site you most likely already know that you have a P0420 code. To start, we strongly recommend you seek the services of a professional mechanic/technician if you have any doubts as to whether you can perform the repair! Also, be sure to follow proper diagnostic procedures to determine whether a part has failed. If you simply change parts hoping it will solve the problem, you're really just guessing and wasting money. This site is here for information purposes only and is meant to help you learn more about the dtc and decide if you can tackle the repair yourself. It is not intended as car repair advice.
OK, so what does a P0420 code mean anyway?
As mentioned above, the code's description is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). OK, now tell me that again in plain English please.... let's break it down: the catalyst system being referred to is your three-way catalytic converter; so the catalytic converter is not working properly (i.e. it's not efficient). Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine which contains cylinder #1. On inline engines such as 4 & 5 cylinder engines, there is only one bank. So, to really simply things let's just say that the efficiency of the catalytic converter and/or exhaust pipe and/or O2 sensor is not so great.
There are no symptoms so why should I fix it?
So what is causing my P0420 code?
There are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly. The other likely thing is the rear O2 (oxygen) sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.
OK, so I want to diagnose things, what do I do next?
The easiest thing to do first is a visual check of things. Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those syptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement. Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you'll want to check the operation of the O2 sensor. To do that, you'll need access to a scan tool or oscilliscope. Check that the waveform is pretty steady. If the reading fluctuates then the sensor is likely bad and will need to be replaced.
On some vehicles such as some Subaru models an ECM reflash will fix the problem. As you can see a P0420 can be caused by many things, so if you have any doubts as to whether you can fix the problem yourself, please seek the advice of a professional technician. Good luck with your honda.
A P0420 code will cause no symptoms aside from the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will illuminate. The reality is there is still something wrong and your Honda needs attention in order to be in excellent running condition. A poorly maintained Honda will run less efficiently, burn more gas, and cost you more money in the long run. Plus, if your check engine light is on for a P0420 code and you decide not to fix it, another more serious code could be triggered and you'd never know. The MIL lights up whether you have one code or ten! While I have your attention, don't forget to do oil changes as the owner's manual schedules and keep those tires on your Honda inflated to the proper PSI.
Ford F-150 Lariat, P0300, P0304, P0305, P0308
Basic diagnostic procedured for Trouble code P0300, P0304, P0305, P0308
VEHICLE: 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4L, V8, MFI, SOHC, VIN 5, Eng Desg -, Eng Version Triton
MILEAGE: 101000
Concern: After the engine reaches operating temperature it loses power and misfires and backfires through the intake on hard acceleration.
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) set Keep Alive Memory (KAM) codes P0300, P0304, P0305, P0308, and P0420.
Fuel pressure is staying between 35-55 psi all the time.
Tests:
1. Remove and inspect the condition of several spark plugs. If the spark plugs are worn from excessive usage, replace the entire set of spark plugs and plug boots. Use the guidance of TSB 08-07-06 to remove the spark plugs with the greatest success of plug removal without breakage.
2. Check the output of the Coil-On-Plug (COP) units on the cylinders denoted by misfire codes by installing a spark tester between the COP unit and ground with a 3/4-1" air gap to verify that the COPs will produce a strong and consistent spark with a bright bluish color. Replace any suspect COP unit.
3. If replacement of the spark plugs and any suspect COP unit results in the continued recurrence of engine misfire and backfire, check the exhaust backpressure for an indication of a restricted catalytic converter. Replace the converter(s) as needed.
Potential Causes:
Worn Spark Plug(s)
Spark Plug Boot(s)
Defective Coil On Plug(s) (COP)
Restricted Catalytic Converter
Confirmed Fix:
Replaced Spark Plug(s)
Replaced Coil On Plug(s) (COP): A couple of COP units were failing.
Replaced Catalytic Converter(s): The driver's side converter was restricting flow.
Ford F-150 Lariat, P0300, P0304, P0305, P0308
VEHICLE: 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4L, V8, MFI, SOHC, VIN 5, Eng Desg -, Eng Version Triton
MILEAGE: 101000
Concern: After the engine reaches operating temperature it loses power and misfires and backfires through the intake on hard acceleration.
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) set Keep Alive Memory (KAM) codes P0300, P0304, P0305, P0308, and P0420.
Fuel pressure is staying between 35-55 psi all the time.
Tests:
1. Remove and inspect the condition of several spark plugs. If the spark plugs are worn from excessive usage, replace the entire set of spark plugs and plug boots. Use the guidance of TSB 08-07-06 to remove the spark plugs with the greatest success of plug removal without breakage.
2. Check the output of the Coil-On-Plug (COP) units on the cylinders denoted by misfire codes by installing a spark tester between the COP unit and ground with a 3/4-1" air gap to verify that the COPs will produce a strong and consistent spark with a bright bluish color. Replace any suspect COP unit.
3. If replacement of the spark plugs and any suspect COP unit results in the continued recurrence of engine misfire and backfire, check the exhaust backpressure for an indication of a restricted catalytic converter. Replace the converter(s) as needed.
Potential Causes:
Worn Spark Plug(s)
Spark Plug Boot(s)
Defective Coil On Plug(s) (COP)
Restricted Catalytic Converter
Confirmed Fix:
Replaced Spark Plug(s)
Replaced Coil On Plug(s) (COP): A couple of COP units were failing.
Replaced Catalytic Converter(s): The driver's side converter was restricting flow.
Ford F-150 Lariat, P0300, P0304, P0305, P0308
Isuzu Trooper Limited 3.5L, Trouble code P0401
Basic Diagnostic procedures for, Isuzu Trooper Limited 3.5L, Trouble code P0401
Tests:
1. Command the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve open at idle and see that it kills the engine. If it doesn't, the EGR valve may be sticking or the EGR passages in the intake manifold may be plugged up.
2. Unbolt the throttle body to be able to access the EGR tube, use a coat hanger to clean out the tube.
Potential Causes:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve
Plugged Passages
Confirmed Fix:
Cleaned Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Passages
Tech Tips:
These engines also suffer from oil consumption. This adds to the problem of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system plugging up.
Isuzu Trooper Limited 3.5L, Trouble code P0401
Tests:
1. Command the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve open at idle and see that it kills the engine. If it doesn't, the EGR valve may be sticking or the EGR passages in the intake manifold may be plugged up.
2. Unbolt the throttle body to be able to access the EGR tube, use a coat hanger to clean out the tube.
Potential Causes:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve
Plugged Passages
Confirmed Fix:
Cleaned Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Passages
Tech Tips:
These engines also suffer from oil consumption. This adds to the problem of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system plugging up.
Isuzu Trooper Limited 3.5L, Trouble code P0401
Dodge Ram 1500 Trouble code P2317, insufficient ionization.
Basic diagnostic procedures for Trouble Code P2317:
VEHICLE: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck ST 4.7L, V8, MFI, SOHC, VIN N, Eng Desg -, Eng Version Power-Tech, 287 CID
MILEAGE: 108818
Trouble code P2317 for #6 coil, insufficient ionization.
Tests:
1. Inspect the spark plugs for correct application, there should be platinum spark plugs installed. Inspect the spark plugs for any signs of misfiring, such as carbon tracking on the spark plug insulator or the coil boot. Inspect for cracked spark plugs or incorrect gap. Inspect for any kind of fouling on the spark plugs. Replace the spark plugs or the coils as needed.
2. Verify the wiring is not shorted to ground from the coils to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If the wiring is OK then the problem is a bad PCM. Be aware that this PCM comes blank and needs to be flashed for it to run after replacement.
Potential Causes:
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Coils
Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Dodge Ram 1500 Trouble code P2317, insufficient ionization.
VEHICLE: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck ST 4.7L, V8, MFI, SOHC, VIN N, Eng Desg -, Eng Version Power-Tech, 287 CID
MILEAGE: 108818
Trouble code P2317 for #6 coil, insufficient ionization.
Tests:
1. Inspect the spark plugs for correct application, there should be platinum spark plugs installed. Inspect the spark plugs for any signs of misfiring, such as carbon tracking on the spark plug insulator or the coil boot. Inspect for cracked spark plugs or incorrect gap. Inspect for any kind of fouling on the spark plugs. Replace the spark plugs or the coils as needed.
2. Verify the wiring is not shorted to ground from the coils to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If the wiring is OK then the problem is a bad PCM. Be aware that this PCM comes blank and needs to be flashed for it to run after replacement.
Potential Causes:
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Coils
Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Dodge Ram 1500 Trouble code P2317, insufficient ionization.
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Chevrolet Cobalt Photos, Prices, Reviews, Specs - The Car Connection
"The Chevrolet Cobalt is a compact car introduced by General Motors back in 2004 for the 2005 model year. It replaced the previous Cavalier and Prizm models in Chevrolet’s lineup and comes in both coupe and sedan bodystyles. The Cobalt shares its front-wheel drive Delta platform with several vehicles in the GM fleet, including the Chevrolet HHR and the former Pontiac G5 and Saturn Astra."
2011 Mazda3 Reviews, Pictures and Prices - U.S. News Rankings and Reviews
"Mazda3 - What the Auto Press Says
The 2011 Mazda3 ranks 8 out of 33 Affordable Small Cars. This ranking is based on our analysis of 41 published reviews and test drives of the Mazda3, and our analysis of reliability and safety data.
Reviewers give the 2011 Mazda3 a thumbs up for its high performance and nice interior, but many grimace at its smiling front grill. If you’re willing to ignore the Mazda3’s toothless grin, it’s a great option that provides a touch of sass at an affordable price.
Because the Mazda3 was just redesigned for 2010, the 2011 Mazda3 is almost identical to the 2010. Los Angeles Times explains, “That means you shouldn't expect any significant changes until 2013, when Mazda should freshen the front and rear styling to regenerate interest in the Mazda3 for the last two or three years of the current model's life cycle.” Reviewers agree that the Mazda3 maintains its reputation as a zippy, fun car with a high-quality feel that appeals to buyers who want a touch of sass in their commute but also want to stick to a budget."
The 2011 Mazda3 ranks 8 out of 33 Affordable Small Cars. This ranking is based on our analysis of 41 published reviews and test drives of the Mazda3, and our analysis of reliability and safety data.
Reviewers give the 2011 Mazda3 a thumbs up for its high performance and nice interior, but many grimace at its smiling front grill. If you’re willing to ignore the Mazda3’s toothless grin, it’s a great option that provides a touch of sass at an affordable price.
Because the Mazda3 was just redesigned for 2010, the 2011 Mazda3 is almost identical to the 2010. Los Angeles Times explains, “That means you shouldn't expect any significant changes until 2013, when Mazda should freshen the front and rear styling to regenerate interest in the Mazda3 for the last two or three years of the current model's life cycle.” Reviewers agree that the Mazda3 maintains its reputation as a zippy, fun car with a high-quality feel that appeals to buyers who want a touch of sass in their commute but also want to stick to a budget."
Antiques Rev Up Truck Lovers at Annual Show - FoxNews.com
The 32nd annual Antique Truck Club of America show is under way in Macungie, Pa., with more than 10,000 truck enthusiasts from all over the world expected to marvel at the magnificent antique commercial vehicles on display throughout the weekend.
"This is the greatest antique truck show in the world," club director Doug Maney boasted. "We have everything that a truck enthusiast would want, variations of models and years of trucks. We also have a big swap meet where truck lovers can find anything they want for their restoration projects, but what it all comes down to is the people."
Saturday, June 18, 2011
Brawls break out at michigan car dealerships
Two Wayland Chevrolet employees fight outside the car dealership after finding out they were losing their jobs.
Three alcohol-fueled fights erupted at a Michigan auto dealership last week on the day employees were told the business was closing, another sign of a community on edge as it tries to deal with the flailing economy.
The first brawl took place outside Wayland Chevrolet at about 1 p.m. on Friday after several employees visited a bar. Police were alerted to the dispute, but it was broken up before they got there, Wayland Police Chief Dan Miller told FOXNews.com.
"Had they been sober, this probably wouldn’t have happened," Miller said.
Local news station WWMT-TV captured the second altercation at about 2 p.m. The video shows a scuffle, with employee Jason Stanton knocking another worker to the ground outside the dealership.
Click here to watch the video of the fight.
Later, Stanton explained what set him off.
"Does it matter how hard you work, because there is somebody a little bit above you that has the right to control every decision and every effort you put forward, don't you have a right to be a little bit mad when somebody says hey we're all done?" Stanton asked WWMT-TV. "It's terrible, horrible."
The third fight followed an incident between two salesmen at a pizza restaurant next door.
Wayland Chevrolet blames the shutdown on the downturn in the auto industry and the scheduled closing of General Motors Corp.'s metal stamping factory this year in the Grand Rapids suburb of Wyoming.
"I think people are just on edge," Miller said. It’s unfortunate, but it just adds insult to injury when they go out and get intoxicated."
Miller said disorderly conduct and assault charges are possible while they try to identify the employees involved.
The dealership employed about 30 people
Friday, June 17, 2011
Lincoln Town car air suspension and why it fails
The Lincoln Town Car's air suspension uses a small, separate air compressor under the driver’s side left fenderwell, and air lines run to the air bags. On top of each air bag is a electrical valve that serves as a relief valve that allows air to be exhausted when activated. The valve senses the amount of air pressure within the air bag to keep both sides equal. These valves are operated via a leveling sensor that is attached to the body of the car and to the rear axle by a movable arm. When the rear of the car drops because of an increased load, the arm is pushed up, turning on the air compressor and filling the air bags to level the car. When the load is removed and the arm moves down, indicating that the back of the car has risen, the sensor opens the valve on the air bags and allows air to escape, lowering the car.
Air-Suspension Switch
If the back of the Lincoln Towncar is low, indicating that the air suspension is not working, and the air suspension light is on, check the fuse. If the fuse is all right, make sure the air-suspension switch in the trunk is on. This switch is used when the car is in for service. Always turn off the switch before lifting the car, because the sensor will think the car is rising and keep the air bag valves open, ruining the rear air suspension.
Switch Terminals
Turn the ignition key with the engine off, and listen for the compressor to come on while pushing down on the rear bumper. If it does not come on, test the switch terminals for power with a circuit tester. If one terminal has power and the other does not, replace the switch.
If there is power, turn the switch to the "Off" position, raise the vehicle and place it on jack stands in the rear. Inspect the leveling switch on the axle, making sure it is not bent and is connected. Use an ohmmeter for this test. Pull the electrical connector off the switch. Loosen the arm of the switch from the axle. Test the switch with the ohmmeter by checking across both terminals while slowly moving the arm. There should be no continuity with the arm down. As the arm is raised, there should be continuity. If not, replace the switch. If there was continuity, connect the arm and the electrical connector.
Check for Power
Put a floor jack under the axle and raise the axle so it is just beginning to lift the car off the jack stand. Turn on the ignition. Turn the air suspension switch to the "On" position. Use the circuit tester to check for power at the leveling switch. If there is power, turn the air-suspension switch to "Off" and lower the car.
Access the air compressor in the front, under the hood, and check the electrical connector for power. If there is power, check for a good ground. If both are good, replace the compressor. If the compressor works and the car does not rise in the back, replace the air bags
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Air-Suspension Switch
If the back of the Lincoln Towncar is low, indicating that the air suspension is not working, and the air suspension light is on, check the fuse. If the fuse is all right, make sure the air-suspension switch in the trunk is on. This switch is used when the car is in for service. Always turn off the switch before lifting the car, because the sensor will think the car is rising and keep the air bag valves open, ruining the rear air suspension.
Switch Terminals
Turn the ignition key with the engine off, and listen for the compressor to come on while pushing down on the rear bumper. If it does not come on, test the switch terminals for power with a circuit tester. If one terminal has power and the other does not, replace the switch.
If there is power, turn the switch to the "Off" position, raise the vehicle and place it on jack stands in the rear. Inspect the leveling switch on the axle, making sure it is not bent and is connected. Use an ohmmeter for this test. Pull the electrical connector off the switch. Loosen the arm of the switch from the axle. Test the switch with the ohmmeter by checking across both terminals while slowly moving the arm. There should be no continuity with the arm down. As the arm is raised, there should be continuity. If not, replace the switch. If there was continuity, connect the arm and the electrical connector.
Check for Power
Put a floor jack under the axle and raise the axle so it is just beginning to lift the car off the jack stand. Turn on the ignition. Turn the air suspension switch to the "On" position. Use the circuit tester to check for power at the leveling switch. If there is power, turn the air-suspension switch to "Off" and lower the car.
Access the air compressor in the front, under the hood, and check the electrical connector for power. If there is power, check for a good ground. If both are good, replace the compressor. If the compressor works and the car does not rise in the back, replace the air bags
Thursday, June 16, 2011
GMC Envoy Denali
GMC Envoy will not start/ crank over. Trouble codes P0121, P1516, P2101, P2135 and P2176 are present.
Already tested voltage at the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) C1 Blue connector terminal 51 Orange/Black wire from the park/neutral switch, battery voltage Key On, Engine Off (KOEO) and cranking. Tested voltage backprobed at the PCM C1 terminal 52 Purple wire, battery voltage in the crank position.
Further Tests:
1. Test voltage backprobed at the PCM C1 terminal 13 Yellow/Black wire starter relay control. Should be battery voltage KOEO, ground when cranking.
2. If the voltage stays high during crank, test the PCM powers/grounds.
3. Check the Transmission Range (TR) switch status with a scan tool. It must indicate Park or Neutral for the engine to start.
4. Check the Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Fuel Disable status with a scan tool. If it displays “active” during crank, check for theft deterrent system trouble codes.
5. Unplug the throttle body. If the engine now cranks, troubleshoot the throttle body DTC's.
Potential Causes:
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Park Neutral Position (PNP) Switch
Throttle Body
Confirmed Fix:
Replaced Throttle Body
Tech Tips:
G108 is located on the lower left side of the engine block, near the front of the engine.
I hope this helps get your GMC Envoy back on the road
Already tested voltage at the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) C1 Blue connector terminal 51 Orange/Black wire from the park/neutral switch, battery voltage Key On, Engine Off (KOEO) and cranking. Tested voltage backprobed at the PCM C1 terminal 52 Purple wire, battery voltage in the crank position.
Further Tests:
1. Test voltage backprobed at the PCM C1 terminal 13 Yellow/Black wire starter relay control. Should be battery voltage KOEO, ground when cranking.
2. If the voltage stays high during crank, test the PCM powers/grounds.
3. Check the Transmission Range (TR) switch status with a scan tool. It must indicate Park or Neutral for the engine to start.
4. Check the Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Fuel Disable status with a scan tool. If it displays “active” during crank, check for theft deterrent system trouble codes.
5. Unplug the throttle body. If the engine now cranks, troubleshoot the throttle body DTC's.
Potential Causes:
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Park Neutral Position (PNP) Switch
Throttle Body
Confirmed Fix:
Replaced Throttle Body
Tech Tips:
G108 is located on the lower left side of the engine block, near the front of the engine.
I hope this helps get your GMC Envoy back on the road
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Reset the Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensor on a Cadillac.
After rotating the tires the dash display no longer indicates when a tire is low. The owner's manual says the computer must be reset, but doesn't tell how.
Here’s how, straight from the shop manual:
Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensor Programming
* Tool Required
* J 41760 Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) Programming Tool.
The Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system interfaces with the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) , Dash Integration Module (DIM) , and the Remoter Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) via a class 2 serial data circuit to perform the sensor programming procedure. Once the program mode is accessed through the RCDLR, each sensor's unique identification code can be programmed into the RCDLR's memory. Each sensor must transmit it's ID code in the proper sequence in order for the TPM system to know the sensors location. A magnet must be held close to the sensor in order to force the sensor to transmit it's ID code. Once the RCDLR has received a sensors ID code a message is sent out on a class 2 serial data line to the DIM to sound a horn chirp, indicating that the sensor transmitted and the RCDLC received the ID code. If the programming sequence is cancelled before any sensor is programmed, the RCDLR will remember all current ID codes. As soon as the RCDLR learns the first sensor's ID code, all previously stored ID codes are erased from the RCDLR's memory. Loss of, or low vehicle battery voltage will cause the sensor ID codes to be erased from the RCDLR's memory. Before proceeding with the steps below, ensure the TPM option is enabled in the RCDLR and IPC.
Programming
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Important: If the sensor programming mode cannot be activated, ensure the TPM option is enabled in the RCDLR and the IPC as mentioned in the above supporting text.
2. Press the key fob lock and unlock buttons simultaneously for several seconds. A horn chirp will sound indicating the sensor programming mode is activated. Important: If the horn chirp does not sound after 15 seconds, remove then replace the sensor programming tool over the valve stem.
3. Starting with the left front tire, place the J 41760 over the left front valve stem, a horn chirp will sound indicating the sensor's ID code has been programmed.
4. When the horn chirp sounds, proceed to program the next sensors in the following order:
o Right front
o Right rear
o Left rear
5. After the left rear sensor is programmed, the horn chirp will sound twice to indicate programming is complete.
Programming Cancellation
The programming mode will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are met:
* The ignition is turned OFF.
* All four sensors have been programmed.
* The TPM system has been in the program mode for longer than 5 minutes and no sensors have been programmed.
* If more then one minute has passed before the next sensor is programmed, all previously stored codes are erased from the receiver's memory.
* Vehicle battery voltage is below 8 volts.
And that special tool isn’t that special—it’s just a big magnet. You can probably get one powerful enough at Radio Shack.
Should use nitrogen or air in my car tires?
If I use nitrogen in my car tires instead of air, will my tires last longer? Will I get better gas mileage? Will I get a smoother ride?
There are several compelling reasons to use pure nitrogen in tires.
First is that nitrogen is less likely to migrate through tire rubber than is oxygen, which means that your tire pressures will remain more stable over the long term. Racers figured out pretty quickly that tires filled with nitrogen rather than air also exhibit less pressure change with temperature swings. That means more consistent inflation pressures during a race as the tires heat up. And when you're tweaking a race car's handling with half-psi changes, that's important.
Passenger cars can also benefit from the more stable pressures. But there's more: Humidity (water) is a Bad Thing to have inside a tire. Water, present as a vapor or even as a liquid in a tire, causes more of a pressure change with temperature swings than dry air does. It also promotes corrosion of the steel or aluminum rim.
If I ever need to top off a tire when I'm out on the road, I'll always briefly depress the tire chuck's valve with my thumbnail and vent some air. If my thumb gets wet, there's water in the line. Some gas stations don't do a very good job of keeping the humidity out of their air system. I don't even like to use a water-based tire-mounting lubricant unless I can let the tire bake in the sun for a couple of hours before I air it up and seat the bead. I've dismounted tires (not mine) that had several quarts of water inside—probably from a compressed-air hose that collected water and was never purged properly.
How is water relevant to a nitrogen discussion? Any system that delivers pure nitrogen is also going to deliver dry nitrogen. Filling tires with nitrogen involves filling and purging several times in succession, serially diluting the concentration of oxygen in the tire. This will also remove any water.
It's certainly simple, although time-consuming, for a tire technician to fill and bleed tires. But most shops use a machine that not only generates almost pure nitrogen by straining the oxygen out of shop-compressed air, but will also automatically go through several purge cycles unattended. Some shops have been charging as much as $30 per tire for this service. I think that's too much. If you're buying a new tire, it should be far less. Still, the nitrogen generator, filling system and technician's time aren't free—the dealer is entitled to some return for that.
So, to answer your specific questions: With nitrogen, your tire pressures will remain more constant, saving you a small amount in fuel and tire-maintenance costs. There will be less moisture inside your tires, meaning less corrosion on your wheels. You will not be able to feel any difference in the ride or handling or braking, unless your tire pressures were seriously out of spec and changing to nitrogen brought them back to the proper numbers.
In my personal opinion, I run nitrogen in my tires, but only because it is free for me to do. As far as I can see in comparison between air and nitrogen the temperature fluctuation is nearly the same. It has been this way on many of my vehicles. It is also inconvenient to find a place to fill your tires that isn't going to charge you. I do believe that the tire used depends on how well it works. My truck tires would stay at the same pressure during a 3 month period. My car tires will drop pressure as normal with no leaks. If you take care of you car on a regular basis nitrogen won't be of much benefit due to the cost. Plus there is already 78% nitrogen in air.
There are several compelling reasons to use pure nitrogen in tires.
First is that nitrogen is less likely to migrate through tire rubber than is oxygen, which means that your tire pressures will remain more stable over the long term. Racers figured out pretty quickly that tires filled with nitrogen rather than air also exhibit less pressure change with temperature swings. That means more consistent inflation pressures during a race as the tires heat up. And when you're tweaking a race car's handling with half-psi changes, that's important.
Passenger cars can also benefit from the more stable pressures. But there's more: Humidity (water) is a Bad Thing to have inside a tire. Water, present as a vapor or even as a liquid in a tire, causes more of a pressure change with temperature swings than dry air does. It also promotes corrosion of the steel or aluminum rim.
If I ever need to top off a tire when I'm out on the road, I'll always briefly depress the tire chuck's valve with my thumbnail and vent some air. If my thumb gets wet, there's water in the line. Some gas stations don't do a very good job of keeping the humidity out of their air system. I don't even like to use a water-based tire-mounting lubricant unless I can let the tire bake in the sun for a couple of hours before I air it up and seat the bead. I've dismounted tires (not mine) that had several quarts of water inside—probably from a compressed-air hose that collected water and was never purged properly.
How is water relevant to a nitrogen discussion? Any system that delivers pure nitrogen is also going to deliver dry nitrogen. Filling tires with nitrogen involves filling and purging several times in succession, serially diluting the concentration of oxygen in the tire. This will also remove any water.
It's certainly simple, although time-consuming, for a tire technician to fill and bleed tires. But most shops use a machine that not only generates almost pure nitrogen by straining the oxygen out of shop-compressed air, but will also automatically go through several purge cycles unattended. Some shops have been charging as much as $30 per tire for this service. I think that's too much. If you're buying a new tire, it should be far less. Still, the nitrogen generator, filling system and technician's time aren't free—the dealer is entitled to some return for that.
So, to answer your specific questions: With nitrogen, your tire pressures will remain more constant, saving you a small amount in fuel and tire-maintenance costs. There will be less moisture inside your tires, meaning less corrosion on your wheels. You will not be able to feel any difference in the ride or handling or braking, unless your tire pressures were seriously out of spec and changing to nitrogen brought them back to the proper numbers.
In my personal opinion, I run nitrogen in my tires, but only because it is free for me to do. As far as I can see in comparison between air and nitrogen the temperature fluctuation is nearly the same. It has been this way on many of my vehicles. It is also inconvenient to find a place to fill your tires that isn't going to charge you. I do believe that the tire used depends on how well it works. My truck tires would stay at the same pressure during a 3 month period. My car tires will drop pressure as normal with no leaks. If you take care of you car on a regular basis nitrogen won't be of much benefit due to the cost. Plus there is already 78% nitrogen in air.
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