1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus, engine will not rotate, turn over when trying to start. Here a quick few diagnostic tips for the 1995 through 2000 Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth breeze. These diagnostic procedures are directed at helping you find the reason your engine will not rotate or turn over when attempting to start. These are some basic and simple diagnostic procedures that should help you figure out your issue.
Saturday, July 27, 2013
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus faulty fusible link
fusible link. Fusible links are used in circuits which are not ordinarily refused, such as a starting or ignition circuits.
Although the fusible links appear to be a heavier gauged in the wires there protecting, the appearance is due to the thick insulation. All fusible links are for wire gauge is smaller than the wire there designed to protect. Fusible links cannot be repaired, but a new link of the same amperage rating can be installed the procedure is as follows
Disconnect the negative cable from the remote battery terminal. Disconnect the fusible link from the component at the eyelid terminal connection. Cut the damage fusible link out of the wiring just behind the current connector. Stripped insulation back approximately 1 inch spread the strands of the exposed wire apart, pushed them together and twist them in place. If available, this connection may be made using another crimp type connector. Use rosin core type solder and solder the wires together it to obtain a good connection. Use plenty of electrical tape around the solder joint. No wires should be exposed. Connect the fusible link eyelid terminal to the component and tighten the screws securely connect the negative cable to the remote battery terminal. Test the circuit for proper operation
Some basic diagnostic procedures
Although the fusible links appear to be a heavier gauged in the wires there protecting, the appearance is due to the thick insulation. All fusible links are for wire gauge is smaller than the wire there designed to protect. Fusible links cannot be repaired, but a new link of the same amperage rating can be installed the procedure is as follows
Disconnect the negative cable from the remote battery terminal. Disconnect the fusible link from the component at the eyelid terminal connection. Cut the damage fusible link out of the wiring just behind the current connector. Stripped insulation back approximately 1 inch spread the strands of the exposed wire apart, pushed them together and twist them in place. If available, this connection may be made using another crimp type connector. Use rosin core type solder and solder the wires together it to obtain a good connection. Use plenty of electrical tape around the solder joint. No wires should be exposed. Connect the fusible link eyelid terminal to the component and tighten the screws securely connect the negative cable to the remote battery terminal. Test the circuit for proper operation
Some basic diagnostic procedures
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus ignition failure
Ignition system check
With the position switch turn to the on position, a glowing instrument panel battery light or oil pressure light is a basic check for battery voltage supply to the ignition system and PCM
First check all ignition wiring connections for tightness, cuts, corrosion or any other signs of a bad connection.
Check the condition of the spark plug wires. Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance of each spark plug wire and comparable and the measure value to the resistance value listed in the specifications. A bad spark plug wire or poor connection at the spark plug or coil or distributor Could also result in a misfire.
On V-6 engines, remove the distributor cap and rotor. Inspect the And rotor for moisture, cracks, erosion, carbon tracks worn rotor button or other damage. Remove one spark plug wire at a time from the So they don't get mixed up and check the terminals inside the For corrosion, which will appear as a white crusty powder, slight corrosion can be removed with a screwdriver or around wire brush. On the distributor, use an ohmmeter to measure resistance between the rotor button in the coil terminal. The resistance should be approximately 5000 ohms. On the distributor, inspect the quarrel high tension tower for cracks, carbon tracks or corrosion. If the coil is found to be defective, the entire distributor must be replaced. If the Or rotor is defective and the ignition components including spark plugs have been in service for more than 60,000 miles, the manufacturer recommends replacing all ignition components at the same time.
If the engine turns over but won't start, disconnected number one spark plug wire on four-cylinder engines or the number two spark plug wire on V-6 engines and install a calibrated ignition tester available at most auto parts stores. Make sure the testers designed for Chrysler electronic ignition systems if the universal tester is not available.
Connect the clip of the tester to a bolt or metal bracket located on the engine. If an ignition tester is not available, a good spark plug with the gap set to the maximum tolerance can also be used. Ground the threaded portion of the spark plug to the engine. Crank the engine while observing the ignition tester-if bright blue, while defined sparks occur, sufficient voltage is reason spark plug the fire, caution: if the engine starts, do not run the engine for longer than one minute during this test-the role fuel escaping from the cylinder being tested may cause damage to the catalytic converter.
On four-cylinder engines, perform this check at the number two spark plug location also. This will check the other ignition coil inside the coil pack. Note- it is not necessary to perform this check at another location on V-6 engines because that system uses a single coil.
The spark is present, the coil is firing, however, the spark plug themselves may be filed or damaged, so removing check them or install new ones.
If no spark or intermittent sparks occur, disconnect the coil electrical connector and connect a test light to the center terminal of the coil electrical connector and one of the outer terminals on four-cylinder engines or across both harness terminals on V-6 engines
With the test light placed where you can see it from the driver's seat, crank the engine and watched the test light, issued flash on and off while the engine is cranking up the test light does not blink checked the wiring harness for damage or short. If the wiring is okay, checked operation of the automatic shutdown also known as the ASD relay. If necessary, check the operation of the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. If the ASD relay and cam/crank sensors check out okay have the PCM diagnosed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.
If voltage is present meaning the light blue is blinking, check the ignition coil and replace it if necessary.
If these checks do not identify the problem, further diagnosis should be made by a qualified dealer service department or other qualified repair shop
More Diagnostic procedures
With the position switch turn to the on position, a glowing instrument panel battery light or oil pressure light is a basic check for battery voltage supply to the ignition system and PCM
First check all ignition wiring connections for tightness, cuts, corrosion or any other signs of a bad connection.
Check the condition of the spark plug wires. Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance of each spark plug wire and comparable and the measure value to the resistance value listed in the specifications. A bad spark plug wire or poor connection at the spark plug or coil or distributor Could also result in a misfire.
On V-6 engines, remove the distributor cap and rotor. Inspect the And rotor for moisture, cracks, erosion, carbon tracks worn rotor button or other damage. Remove one spark plug wire at a time from the So they don't get mixed up and check the terminals inside the For corrosion, which will appear as a white crusty powder, slight corrosion can be removed with a screwdriver or around wire brush. On the distributor, use an ohmmeter to measure resistance between the rotor button in the coil terminal. The resistance should be approximately 5000 ohms. On the distributor, inspect the quarrel high tension tower for cracks, carbon tracks or corrosion. If the coil is found to be defective, the entire distributor must be replaced. If the Or rotor is defective and the ignition components including spark plugs have been in service for more than 60,000 miles, the manufacturer recommends replacing all ignition components at the same time.
If the engine turns over but won't start, disconnected number one spark plug wire on four-cylinder engines or the number two spark plug wire on V-6 engines and install a calibrated ignition tester available at most auto parts stores. Make sure the testers designed for Chrysler electronic ignition systems if the universal tester is not available.
Connect the clip of the tester to a bolt or metal bracket located on the engine. If an ignition tester is not available, a good spark plug with the gap set to the maximum tolerance can also be used. Ground the threaded portion of the spark plug to the engine. Crank the engine while observing the ignition tester-if bright blue, while defined sparks occur, sufficient voltage is reason spark plug the fire, caution: if the engine starts, do not run the engine for longer than one minute during this test-the role fuel escaping from the cylinder being tested may cause damage to the catalytic converter.
On four-cylinder engines, perform this check at the number two spark plug location also. This will check the other ignition coil inside the coil pack. Note- it is not necessary to perform this check at another location on V-6 engines because that system uses a single coil.
The spark is present, the coil is firing, however, the spark plug themselves may be filed or damaged, so removing check them or install new ones.
If no spark or intermittent sparks occur, disconnect the coil electrical connector and connect a test light to the center terminal of the coil electrical connector and one of the outer terminals on four-cylinder engines or across both harness terminals on V-6 engines
With the test light placed where you can see it from the driver's seat, crank the engine and watched the test light, issued flash on and off while the engine is cranking up the test light does not blink checked the wiring harness for damage or short. If the wiring is okay, checked operation of the automatic shutdown also known as the ASD relay. If necessary, check the operation of the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. If the ASD relay and cam/crank sensors check out okay have the PCM diagnosed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.
If voltage is present meaning the light blue is blinking, check the ignition coil and replace it if necessary.
If these checks do not identify the problem, further diagnosis should be made by a qualified dealer service department or other qualified repair shop
More Diagnostic procedures
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus general ignition iformation
All models are equipped with electronic ignition system. The ignition system consist of the ignition switch, the battery, the coil, the primary and the secondary wiring circuits, ignition wires and spark plugs, the camshaft position sensor, the crankshaft position sensor and the powertrain control module or PCM. The PCM controls ignition timing and spark advance characteristics for the engine. The ignition timing is not adjustable.
The crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor generate voltage pulses that are sent to the PCM. The PCM then determines the crankshaft position, injector sequence and ignition timing. The PCM also supplies battery voltage to the ignition coil through the automatic shutdown relay also known as the ASD. The PCM also controls the ground circuit for the coil.
If the PCM does not receive a signal from the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors, the PCM signals the ASD relay and fuel pump relay to shut down the ignition and fuel delivery systems respectively.
On four-cylinder engines, the secondary ignition system is controlled by energizing the core drivers in the proper firing order. On V-6 engines, a conventional type distributor with the rotor is used to send ignition voltage to the proper cylinder in the firing order. On V-6 engines, the ignition coil and camshaft position sensor are part of the distributor, which is located on the rear of the engine on the right side cylinder head and driven by the camshaft.
More diagnostic procedures
The crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor generate voltage pulses that are sent to the PCM. The PCM then determines the crankshaft position, injector sequence and ignition timing. The PCM also supplies battery voltage to the ignition coil through the automatic shutdown relay also known as the ASD. The PCM also controls the ground circuit for the coil.
If the PCM does not receive a signal from the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors, the PCM signals the ASD relay and fuel pump relay to shut down the ignition and fuel delivery systems respectively.
On four-cylinder engines, the secondary ignition system is controlled by energizing the core drivers in the proper firing order. On V-6 engines, a conventional type distributor with the rotor is used to send ignition voltage to the proper cylinder in the firing order. On V-6 engines, the ignition coil and camshaft position sensor are part of the distributor, which is located on the rear of the engine on the right side cylinder head and driven by the camshaft.
More diagnostic procedures
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus starter motor check
Starter motor-in-vehicle check:
Make sure the battery is fully charged and all cables/connections-at the battery, starter solenoid terminals and remote terminals-are clean and secure.
If the starter motor does not function at all when the switch is operated, make sure the shift lever is a neutral or Park. And checked operation of the park/neutral switch. On vehicles equipped with manual transaxle's, check the operation of the clutch start switch.
At the starter motor spends with the engine is not cranking. The overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the drive plate may be worn. Inspected after removing the starter.
If, when the switches actuated, the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, the problem lies with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor is self.
If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switches actuated, the battery may be faulty, the fusible link may be burned, or the starter relay may be faulty or the solenoid itself is defective.
Check the solenoid, connect the remote starter switch between the positive remote battery terminal and the ignition switch wire terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor operates when the remote switch is activated, the solenoid is okay and the problem is elsewhere in the circuit.
Locate the starter relay in the power distribution center(PDC), Remove the relay and perform the identical test as for the automatic shutdown relay (ASD) and the fuel pump relay. Replace the relay if it is not function as described.
The starter motor still does not operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for replacement as a complete unit.
If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed, first make sure that the battery is fully charged and that all electrical connections are clean and tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong the Scots of the oil and it, it will crank slowly.
If the engine starts, run the engine until normal operating temperature is achieved, then turn off the engine. Remove the fuel pump relay to keep the engine from starting.
Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the positive remote battery terminal and the negative lead to the negative remote battery terminal.
Crank the engine intake the voltmeter reading as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to return for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 V or more, with the starter motor turning it normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9 V or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor, solenoid contacts or circuit connections are faulty. If the reading is less than 9 V and the cranking speed is slow, the starter motor is probably bad.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and all cables/connections-at the battery, starter solenoid terminals and remote terminals-are clean and secure.
If the starter motor does not function at all when the switch is operated, make sure the shift lever is a neutral or Park. And checked operation of the park/neutral switch. On vehicles equipped with manual transaxle's, check the operation of the clutch start switch.
At the starter motor spends with the engine is not cranking. The overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the drive plate may be worn. Inspected after removing the starter.
If, when the switches actuated, the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, the problem lies with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor is self.
If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switches actuated, the battery may be faulty, the fusible link may be burned, or the starter relay may be faulty or the solenoid itself is defective.
Check the solenoid, connect the remote starter switch between the positive remote battery terminal and the ignition switch wire terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor operates when the remote switch is activated, the solenoid is okay and the problem is elsewhere in the circuit.
Locate the starter relay in the power distribution center(PDC), Remove the relay and perform the identical test as for the automatic shutdown relay (ASD) and the fuel pump relay. Replace the relay if it is not function as described.
The starter motor still does not operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for replacement as a complete unit.
If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed, first make sure that the battery is fully charged and that all electrical connections are clean and tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong the Scots of the oil and it, it will crank slowly.
If the engine starts, run the engine until normal operating temperature is achieved, then turn off the engine. Remove the fuel pump relay to keep the engine from starting.
Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the positive remote battery terminal and the negative lead to the negative remote battery terminal.
Crank the engine intake the voltmeter reading as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to return for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 V or more, with the starter motor turning it normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9 V or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor, solenoid contacts or circuit connections are faulty. If the reading is less than 9 V and the cranking speed is slow, the starter motor is probably bad.
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus battery and cable check, maintenenance
Battery cables-check and replacement:
Periodically inspect the entire length of each battery cable for damage, cracked or burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery cable connection cause starting problems and decreased engine performance.
Check the cable terminal connections at the ends of the cables for cracks, loose wire strands and corrosion. The presence of white, fluffy deposits under the insulation at the cable terminal connection at the battery is a sign that the cable is corroded and should be replaced. Check the terminals for distortion, missing mounting bolts and corrosion.
When removing the cables, always disconnected never negative cables first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool used to loosen the cables. Even if only the positive cable is being replaced, be sure to disconnect the negative cable from the ground terminal on the left shock tower first.
Disconnect the old cables from the battery, then trace each of them to the remote terminals and detach them. Note the routing of each cable to ensure correct installation.
Check the cables that connect the starter solenoid and ground terminals to the remote terminals. If they require replacement, note the routing of each cable to ensure correct installation and then detach them.
If you are replacing a cable, take it along with you when purchasing a new one. It is vitally important that you replace it with an identical part. Cables have characteristics that make them easy to identify: positive cables are usually red and large and cross-section, ground cables are usually black and smaller and cross-section.
Clean all connections with the wire brush to remove rust oxidation and corrosion. Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly or greased wall fastener threads to prevent future corrosion.
Before connecting a new cable to the battery, make sure that reaches the battery without having to be stretched. Connect the positive cable first followed by the negative cable.
More diagnostic procedures
Periodically inspect the entire length of each battery cable for damage, cracked or burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery cable connection cause starting problems and decreased engine performance.
Check the cable terminal connections at the ends of the cables for cracks, loose wire strands and corrosion. The presence of white, fluffy deposits under the insulation at the cable terminal connection at the battery is a sign that the cable is corroded and should be replaced. Check the terminals for distortion, missing mounting bolts and corrosion.
When removing the cables, always disconnected never negative cables first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool used to loosen the cables. Even if only the positive cable is being replaced, be sure to disconnect the negative cable from the ground terminal on the left shock tower first.
Disconnect the old cables from the battery, then trace each of them to the remote terminals and detach them. Note the routing of each cable to ensure correct installation.
Check the cables that connect the starter solenoid and ground terminals to the remote terminals. If they require replacement, note the routing of each cable to ensure correct installation and then detach them.
If you are replacing a cable, take it along with you when purchasing a new one. It is vitally important that you replace it with an identical part. Cables have characteristics that make them easy to identify: positive cables are usually red and large and cross-section, ground cables are usually black and smaller and cross-section.
Clean all connections with the wire brush to remove rust oxidation and corrosion. Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly or greased wall fastener threads to prevent future corrosion.
Before connecting a new cable to the battery, make sure that reaches the battery without having to be stretched. Connect the positive cable first followed by the negative cable.
More diagnostic procedures
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus transaxle diagnostics and repair
Diagnose transaxle malfunctions follow these simple steps to help guide you through to help you guide you through procedures.
Automatic transaxle malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions
Poor engine performance.
Improper adjustments.
Hydraulic malfunctions.
Mechanical malfunctions.
Malfunctions in the computer auric signal network.
Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with the check of the easily repaired items. First, check the fluid level and condition, shift cable adjustment, and shift lever installation. Next, perform a road test to determine the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persist after the coronary tests and corrections are completed additional diagnosis should be formed by dealer service department or other qualified transmission repair shop.
Preliminary Checks
Dry the vehicle to warm the transaxle to normal operating temperatures.
If the fluid level is unusually low, and the fluid ring level within the designated area of the dipstick, and check for external leaks.
If the fluid level is abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drain fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine: an automatic transmission fluid in the case of a failure has occurred in the internal radiator oil cooler walls that separate the coolant from the transmission fluid.
If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transaxle, and check for: fluid, or a high fluid level.
Checked the engine idle speed. If the engine is malfunctioning do not proceed with the plenary checks until it has been repaired and runs normally.
Check and adjust the shift cable if necessary.
If art shifting is experienced, inspect the shift cable under the center console and at the manual lever on the transaxle.
Fluid leak diagnosis:
Most fluid leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consists of replacing a seal or gasket. If the leak is difficult to find, the following procedure may help.
Identify the fluid. Make sure his transmission fluid and not engine oil or brake fluid that is leaking.
Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over large sheet of cardboard. After after a minute or two, you should be able locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid dripping onto the cardboard. Automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color.
Make a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and the area immediately around. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to see.
It's leak still cannot be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly with a degreaser or solvent, then dry it thoroughly.
Dry the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspect the component again.
Once leak has been located, the cause must be determined before it can be properly repaired. If the gasket is replaced with the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bit flange must be straightened.
Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a qualified transmission shop or dealer service department.
Gasket leaks:
Check the pan periodically. Make sure the bolts are tight, no bolts are everywhere are missing, the gasket is in good condition and the pan is flat. Denson the pan may indicate damage to the valve body inside.
If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be too high, the event may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transaxle housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transaxle casting may be cracked or porous. If sealant instead of gasket material has been used to form a seal between the pan and the transaxle housing, it may be the wrong type of sealant,
Seal leaks:
If the transaxle seal is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too high, the event may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged, or a loose bearing may cause excessive shaft movement.
Make sure the dipstick tube seal is in good condition and the tube is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the sensors for leakage. If transmission fluid is evident, checked the seals for damage
Case leaks:
If the cases self peers to be leaking, the casting is porous and will have to be repaired or replaced.
Make sure that will cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition.
Fluid comes out of vampire or fill tube:
If this condition occurs the possible causes are, the transactional is overfilled, there is coolant in the fluid, the case is porous, the dipstick is incorrect, the vent is plugged or the drain back holes are plugged.
Automatic transaxle malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions
Poor engine performance.
Improper adjustments.
Hydraulic malfunctions.
Mechanical malfunctions.
Malfunctions in the computer auric signal network.
Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with the check of the easily repaired items. First, check the fluid level and condition, shift cable adjustment, and shift lever installation. Next, perform a road test to determine the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persist after the coronary tests and corrections are completed additional diagnosis should be formed by dealer service department or other qualified transmission repair shop.
Preliminary Checks
Dry the vehicle to warm the transaxle to normal operating temperatures.
If the fluid level is unusually low, and the fluid ring level within the designated area of the dipstick, and check for external leaks.
If the fluid level is abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drain fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine: an automatic transmission fluid in the case of a failure has occurred in the internal radiator oil cooler walls that separate the coolant from the transmission fluid.
If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transaxle, and check for: fluid, or a high fluid level.
Checked the engine idle speed. If the engine is malfunctioning do not proceed with the plenary checks until it has been repaired and runs normally.
Check and adjust the shift cable if necessary.
If art shifting is experienced, inspect the shift cable under the center console and at the manual lever on the transaxle.
Fluid leak diagnosis:
Most fluid leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consists of replacing a seal or gasket. If the leak is difficult to find, the following procedure may help.
Identify the fluid. Make sure his transmission fluid and not engine oil or brake fluid that is leaking.
Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over large sheet of cardboard. After after a minute or two, you should be able locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid dripping onto the cardboard. Automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color.
Make a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and the area immediately around. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to see.
It's leak still cannot be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly with a degreaser or solvent, then dry it thoroughly.
Dry the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspect the component again.
Once leak has been located, the cause must be determined before it can be properly repaired. If the gasket is replaced with the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bit flange must be straightened.
Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a qualified transmission shop or dealer service department.
Gasket leaks:
Check the pan periodically. Make sure the bolts are tight, no bolts are everywhere are missing, the gasket is in good condition and the pan is flat. Denson the pan may indicate damage to the valve body inside.
If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be too high, the event may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transaxle housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transaxle casting may be cracked or porous. If sealant instead of gasket material has been used to form a seal between the pan and the transaxle housing, it may be the wrong type of sealant,
Seal leaks:
If the transaxle seal is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too high, the event may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged, or a loose bearing may cause excessive shaft movement.
Make sure the dipstick tube seal is in good condition and the tube is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the sensors for leakage. If transmission fluid is evident, checked the seals for damage
Case leaks:
If the cases self peers to be leaking, the casting is porous and will have to be repaired or replaced.
Make sure that will cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition.
Fluid comes out of vampire or fill tube:
If this condition occurs the possible causes are, the transactional is overfilled, there is coolant in the fluid, the case is porous, the dipstick is incorrect, the vent is plugged or the drain back holes are plugged.
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus battery charging and diagnostics
Always remember that your battery produces hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Never create a spark, smoke or light a match around the car battery. Always charge a car battery in a ventilated area.
The battery in most vehicles is located inside the wheel well of the left front fender
Remove the battery from the vehicle.
On maintenance type batteries remove the cell caps. Make sure the electrolyte level is okay before bidding beginning to charge the battery. Cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent spattering electrolyte.
On batteries with the terminals located on the side install bolts in the terminal solar charger can be attached.
Connect the battery charger leads to the battery post then plug in the charger. Make sure to set at 12 V if it has a selector switch. If the battery charges not have a built-in timer, it's a good idea to use one in case you forget-you won't overcharge the battery.
If you're using the charter with a rate higher than 2 A, check the battery regularly during charging to make sure it doesn't overheat. If you're using a trickle charger, you can safely let the battery charger overnight after you checked it regularly for the first couple of hours
It's battery has removable cell caps measure the specific gravity with the hydrometer every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometer's are available inexpressibly from the your local auto parts store. Follow the instructions it come with the hydrometer. Consider the battery charge when there's no change in the specific gravity reading for two hours in the electrolyte in the cells is outgassing freely. The specific gravity reading from each cell should be very close to the others if not, the battery probably has a bad cell or cells.
Most batteries with seal tops have built-in hydrometer's on top that indicate the state of charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a bright colored hydrometer indicates a full charge and a drawer dark hydrometer indicates the battery still needs charging. Check the battery manufacturers instructions to be sure you know what the colors mean.
If the battery is assailed top and does not have a built-in hydrometer you can look up a voltmeter across the battery terminals to check the charge a fully charged battery should read approximately 12.6 V or higher.
More diagnostic procedures
1995,1996,1997,1998,1999,2000 Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus battery check and maintenance
1. Tools and materials required for battery maintenance:
Face shield/safety goggles: when removing corrosion with the brush, the acid it particles can easily fly up into your eyes
Baking soda: a solution of baking soda and water can be used to neutralize corrosion
Petroleum jelly: a layer of this on the battery post will help prevent corrosion
Battery post/cable cleaner: this wire brush cleaning tool remove all traces corrosion from the battery posts and cable clamps
This section applies the side mount batteries only
Treated felt washers: placing one of these on each post directly under the cable clamps will help prevent corrosion
Puller: sometimes a cable clamps are very difficult to pull off the posts, even after the nut/bolt has been completely loosened. This tool pulls a clam straight up and off the post without damage
Battery post/cable cleaner for sidemount: here's another cleaning tool which is slightly different version but it does the same thing
Rubber gloves: another safety on the consider was sent when servicing the battery remember that's acid inside the battery
Servicing and maintenance: a routine preventive maintenance program for the battery in your vehicle is only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. But before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work around the battery
Before servicing the battery always turn the engine and all accessories often disconnect the cable from the negative terminal
The battery on these vehicles is usually located inside the wheel well on the left front fender
Remove the battery from the vehicle
Inspect the external condition of the battery, and check the battery case for cracks or other damage
Inspect the external condition of the battery checked the battery case for cracks or other damage paragraph clean the battery terminals and cable connections thoroughly with a wire brush or terminal cleaner in the solution of warm water and baking soda wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution but make sure that the solution doesn't get into the battery. When cleaning the cables, terminals and battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves prevent any solution from coming into contact with your eyes or hands. Where old close to-even diluted, sulfuric acid splashes on the close and will burn holes in them. Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain water
Inspect the battery carrier. If his dirty or covered with corrosion, clean it with the same solution of warm water and baking soda and rinse it with clean water
If the battery is a maintenance type, it has removable cell caps which allow you add water to the battery when the electrolyte level gets low use distilled water only
If you are not sure what type of battery you have, one simple way to confirm your type of battery is to look for a built-in hydrometer. Most maintenance free batteries have built-in hydrometer's indicate the stay of the charter by the color displayed in the hydrometer window since measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte is not possible. Also check for cutouts near the cell's-if the caps can be removed, cutouts are usually provided to assist with prying off the caps.
If your battery is a maintenance type remove the cell's and check the level of the electrolyte. If the level is low, add distilled water, (distilled water is mineral free, tap water contains minerals that will shorten the life of your battery), to bring the electrolyte up to the proper level
next check the entire length of each battery cable for cracks, worn insulation and freight conductors replace the cable and/or cables if necessary,
And re-install the battery
Face shield/safety goggles: when removing corrosion with the brush, the acid it particles can easily fly up into your eyes
Baking soda: a solution of baking soda and water can be used to neutralize corrosion
Petroleum jelly: a layer of this on the battery post will help prevent corrosion
Battery post/cable cleaner: this wire brush cleaning tool remove all traces corrosion from the battery posts and cable clamps
This section applies the side mount batteries only
Treated felt washers: placing one of these on each post directly under the cable clamps will help prevent corrosion
Puller: sometimes a cable clamps are very difficult to pull off the posts, even after the nut/bolt has been completely loosened. This tool pulls a clam straight up and off the post without damage
Battery post/cable cleaner for sidemount: here's another cleaning tool which is slightly different version but it does the same thing
Rubber gloves: another safety on the consider was sent when servicing the battery remember that's acid inside the battery
Servicing and maintenance: a routine preventive maintenance program for the battery in your vehicle is only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. But before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work around the battery
Before servicing the battery always turn the engine and all accessories often disconnect the cable from the negative terminal
The battery on these vehicles is usually located inside the wheel well on the left front fender
Remove the battery from the vehicle
Inspect the external condition of the battery, and check the battery case for cracks or other damage
Inspect the external condition of the battery checked the battery case for cracks or other damage paragraph clean the battery terminals and cable connections thoroughly with a wire brush or terminal cleaner in the solution of warm water and baking soda wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution but make sure that the solution doesn't get into the battery. When cleaning the cables, terminals and battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves prevent any solution from coming into contact with your eyes or hands. Where old close to-even diluted, sulfuric acid splashes on the close and will burn holes in them. Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain water
Inspect the battery carrier. If his dirty or covered with corrosion, clean it with the same solution of warm water and baking soda and rinse it with clean water
If the battery is a maintenance type, it has removable cell caps which allow you add water to the battery when the electrolyte level gets low use distilled water only
If you are not sure what type of battery you have, one simple way to confirm your type of battery is to look for a built-in hydrometer. Most maintenance free batteries have built-in hydrometer's indicate the stay of the charter by the color displayed in the hydrometer window since measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte is not possible. Also check for cutouts near the cell's-if the caps can be removed, cutouts are usually provided to assist with prying off the caps.
If your battery is a maintenance type remove the cell's and check the level of the electrolyte. If the level is low, add distilled water, (distilled water is mineral free, tap water contains minerals that will shorten the life of your battery), to bring the electrolyte up to the proper level
next check the entire length of each battery cable for cracks, worn insulation and freight conductors replace the cable and/or cables if necessary,
And re-install the battery
Thursday, July 25, 2013
Mini Cooper S 1.6L, L4, MFI, SOHC, Eng Desg W11B16A power steering does not work
2002 Mini Cooper S 1.6L, L4, MFI, SOHC, Eng Desg W11B16A
MILEAGE: 155,473
Customer Concern: The power steering is inoperative.
Tests: 1. At the 2-pin connector on the Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering pump unit (EHPS), check that the Red wire has constant battery voltage from fuse FL4 and that the Brown wire is a good ground.
2. At the 3-pin connector on the EHPS, the Green/White wire should have ignition-on battery voltage from fuse F39, and the Yellow wire should have battery voltage from the D+ circuit on the alternator with the engine running. The third wire, Violet/White, is the diagnostic wire from the EHPS to the car's diagnostic connector.
3. If the three power inputs and the ground are good, and the pump does not operate, it is bad and has to be replaced.
Potential Causes: Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering Pump (EHPS)
Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering (EHPS) Pump
Tech Tips: 1. Make sure that the cooling fan for the EHPS, mounted under the pump, comes on when the radiator cooling fan does. Overheating can damage the EHPS.
2. The EHPS is a self-contained unit with its own control module that works automatically on demand as the steering wheel is turned.
3. On early production cars, up to 12/2002, there is a wiring update for the EHPS cooling fan, found under Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) # M32 03 04, that isolates the power supply of the EHPS cooling fan from that of the radiator cooling fan.
MILEAGE: 155,473
Customer Concern: The power steering is inoperative.
Tests: 1. At the 2-pin connector on the Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering pump unit (EHPS), check that the Red wire has constant battery voltage from fuse FL4 and that the Brown wire is a good ground.
2. At the 3-pin connector on the EHPS, the Green/White wire should have ignition-on battery voltage from fuse F39, and the Yellow wire should have battery voltage from the D+ circuit on the alternator with the engine running. The third wire, Violet/White, is the diagnostic wire from the EHPS to the car's diagnostic connector.
3. If the three power inputs and the ground are good, and the pump does not operate, it is bad and has to be replaced.
Potential Causes: Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering Pump (EHPS)
Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering (EHPS) Pump
Tech Tips: 1. Make sure that the cooling fan for the EHPS, mounted under the pump, comes on when the radiator cooling fan does. Overheating can damage the EHPS.
2. The EHPS is a self-contained unit with its own control module that works automatically on demand as the steering wheel is turned.
3. On early production cars, up to 12/2002, there is a wiring update for the EHPS cooling fan, found under Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) # M32 03 04, that isolates the power supply of the EHPS cooling fan from that of the radiator cooling fan.
Kia Sedona EX 3.5L, V6, MFI, DOHC, VIN 1 code P0320
2003 Kia Sedona EX 3.5L, V6, MFI, DOHC, VIN 1
MILEAGE: 80,000
Customer Concern: The check engine light is on with an ignition failure sensor code of P0320 and the tachometer is not working.
Tests: 1. With the engine running, check for battery voltage to the ignition failure sensor on the Pink wire, less than 0.05 volts on the Black wire, and battery voltage from the ignition failure sensor on the Black/White wire.
2. With the engine running, scope the signal on the Yellow/Red wire from the ignition failure sensor. The signal will increase in frequency as the engine RPM is increased.
3. Verify that the connection at the ignition failure sensor is clean and tight.
Potential Causes: Ignition Failure Sensor
Ignition Failure Sensor Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Ignition Failure Sensor
MILEAGE: 80,000
Customer Concern: The check engine light is on with an ignition failure sensor code of P0320 and the tachometer is not working.
Tests: 1. With the engine running, check for battery voltage to the ignition failure sensor on the Pink wire, less than 0.05 volts on the Black wire, and battery voltage from the ignition failure sensor on the Black/White wire.
2. With the engine running, scope the signal on the Yellow/Red wire from the ignition failure sensor. The signal will increase in frequency as the engine RPM is increased.
3. Verify that the connection at the ignition failure sensor is clean and tight.
Potential Causes: Ignition Failure Sensor
Ignition Failure Sensor Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Ignition Failure Sensor
Chevrolet Uplander Base 3.9L, V6, MFI, OHV, VIN W, Eng Desg LGD will not start
Chevrolet Uplander Base 3.9L, V6, MFI, OHV, VIN W, Eng Desg LGD
MILEAGE: 200,000
Customer Concern: The engine will not start and it bucks the starter while cranking. There is no spark from the 1-4 coil but it has good spark from the other coils. Tried a new coil but that did not help.
Tests: 1. Ground the secondary coil terminals and disable the fuel injectors. This will stop the engine from bucking the starter and prevent the cylinders from flooding with fuel.
2. Scope check the pattern on the IC 1 signal at the coils Purple wire, pin B while operating the starter.
3. Compare to the IC 2 signal, Orange/White wire pin A. It should be the same.
4. Inspect for a poor ground at the Electronic Control Module (ECM), ground G113, at the engine to the transmission stud above G115.
5. Check ECM grounds to be less than 50 mv.
6. Check the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor signal for a glitch in the pattern.
7. Check under the CKP sensor for rust at the engine block and clean to bare metal so the sensor mounts flush.
Potential Causes: Failed Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Signal
Failed Electronic Control Module (ECM) Ground
Failed Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Confirmed Fix: Cleaned Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Mounting Surface
MILEAGE: 200,000
Customer Concern: The engine will not start and it bucks the starter while cranking. There is no spark from the 1-4 coil but it has good spark from the other coils. Tried a new coil but that did not help.
Tests: 1. Ground the secondary coil terminals and disable the fuel injectors. This will stop the engine from bucking the starter and prevent the cylinders from flooding with fuel.
2. Scope check the pattern on the IC 1 signal at the coils Purple wire, pin B while operating the starter.
3. Compare to the IC 2 signal, Orange/White wire pin A. It should be the same.
4. Inspect for a poor ground at the Electronic Control Module (ECM), ground G113, at the engine to the transmission stud above G115.
5. Check ECM grounds to be less than 50 mv.
6. Check the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor signal for a glitch in the pattern.
7. Check under the CKP sensor for rust at the engine block and clean to bare metal so the sensor mounts flush.
Potential Causes: Failed Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Signal
Failed Electronic Control Module (ECM) Ground
Failed Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Confirmed Fix: Cleaned Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Mounting Surface
Jaguar S-Type Base 4.0L, V8, MFI, DOHC, VIN G heaters do not work
VEHICLE: 2001 Jaguar S-Type Base 4.0L, V8, MFI, DOHC, VIN G
MILEAGE: 125,109
Customer Concern: There is no heat from either side of the heaters. Have already located the control valve and it has 2 solenoids. What is the voltage that the heater sends to those solenoids?
Tests: 1. The dual control valve has varying voltage input to it from the Air Conditioning Control Module (ACCM) depending on the temperature selected.
2. Check coolant flow through the heater control valve. The heater control valve should be located under the receiver/dryer on the front of the car and under the hood. The V-8 cars have an auxiliary electric water pump, which should also be running at idle when the heat is switched on.
3. The hot water valve defaults open, so when disconnected, all of the hoses going to it should be warm. If not the valve, it is plugged or stuck.
Potential Causes: Water Valve: Faulty/restricted hot water valve.
Air Conditioning Control Module (ACCM)
Coolant Pump: Electric coolant circulation pump inoperative.
Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Dual Coolant Control Valve
Tech Tips: Connect/disconnect the hot water valve connector several times while tapping on it to see if it is stuck/plugged. Check for fault codes in the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system using a Jaguar WDS.
Dodge Ram 1500 Truck SLT 5.7L, V8, MFI, OHV, VIN D trailer lights wont work
2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck SLT 5.7L, V8, MFI, OHV, VIN D
MILEAGE: 95,000
Customer Concern: All the brake lights on the truck work properly but the trailer brake lights don't work. The trailer parking lights and turn signals all are working. There are no codes in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).
Tests: 1. Check brake switch operation in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).
2. If the brake switch input doesn't change from yes to no or applied to not applied check power feed at the TIPM C6 connector pin #7 the White/Tan wire - should have power when the brakes are applied.
Potential Causes: Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM)
Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Repaired Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) Connector: Repaired TIPM C6 connector pin 7 for a bad connection causing the TIPM to not see brake switch input.
Tech Tips: The brake input to the TIPM is hard wired from the brake switch. The wiring diagram forgets to put the switch in there but shows a splice # with no input. It appears to be a high side driver at the TIPM for brake switch output but its being fed so the TIPM knows the brakes are applied. Then the TIPM puts out voltage to the trailer wiring for the brakes.
MILEAGE: 95,000
Customer Concern: All the brake lights on the truck work properly but the trailer brake lights don't work. The trailer parking lights and turn signals all are working. There are no codes in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).
Tests: 1. Check brake switch operation in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).
2. If the brake switch input doesn't change from yes to no or applied to not applied check power feed at the TIPM C6 connector pin #7 the White/Tan wire - should have power when the brakes are applied.
Potential Causes: Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM)
Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) Wiring
Confirmed Fix: Repaired Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) Connector: Repaired TIPM C6 connector pin 7 for a bad connection causing the TIPM to not see brake switch input.
Tech Tips: The brake input to the TIPM is hard wired from the brake switch. The wiring diagram forgets to put the switch in there but shows a splice # with no input. It appears to be a high side driver at the TIPM for brake switch output but its being fed so the TIPM knows the brakes are applied. Then the TIPM puts out voltage to the trailer wiring for the brakes.
Toyota Sienna XLE 3.3L, V6, MFI, DOHC, Eng Desg 3MZFE sliding door will not open
VEHICLE: 2004 Toyota Sienna XLE 3.3L, V6, MFI, DOHC, Eng Desg 3MZFE
MILEAGE: 93,572
Customer Concern: The sliding door will not open. If the release actuator is removed from the latch assembly the system will operate normally.
Tests: 1. At the release actuator check to see if the Black wire gets battery voltage supplied to it when the switch is pressed to on and the switch is pressed to open.
2 Supply battery voltage to the Black wire manually to see if the actuator will operate.
Potential Causes: Malfunctioning Release Actuator
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Right Power Sliding Door Latch Release Actuator
Tech Tips: When the door is operated the computer supplies battery voltage to the Black wire at the actuator but the actuator does not operate. When manually supplying voltage to the actuator the actuator makes a noise.
Cadillac Seville SLS 4.6L, V8, MFI, DOHC, VIN Y, Naturally Aspirated, Eng Version Northstar
2003 Cadillac Seville SLS 4.6L, V8, MFI, DOHC, VIN Y, Naturally Aspirated, Eng Version Northstar, TPI-SFI
MILEAGE: 58,788
Customer Concern: The front passenger heated seat is inoperative.
Tests: 1. Check resistance through the heating elements for an open or too high of a resistance.
2. Sit on the seat to push on the cushions and check for a glitch on the meter.
3. Compare resistance readings to the driver's side. Resistance should be less than 5Ω.
Potential Causes: Heating Element
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Heated Seat Elements
Same issue with The Lincoln
Cadillac Seville SLS 4.6L, V8, MFI, DOHC, VIN Y, Naturally Aspirated, Eng Version Northstar
Heated seat doesnt work
MILEAGE: 58,788
Customer Concern: The front passenger heated seat is inoperative.
Tests: 1. Check resistance through the heating elements for an open or too high of a resistance.
2. Sit on the seat to push on the cushions and check for a glitch on the meter.
3. Compare resistance readings to the driver's side. Resistance should be less than 5Ω.
Potential Causes: Heating Element
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Heated Seat Elements
Same issue with The Lincoln
Cadillac Seville SLS 4.6L, V8, MFI, DOHC, VIN Y, Naturally Aspirated, Eng Version Northstar
Heated seat doesnt work
2004 Honda Pilot EX 3.5L, V6, MFI, SOHC, Eng Desg J35A4, 3475 CC
2004 Honda Pilot EX 3.5L, V6, MFI, SOHC, Eng Desg J35A4, 3475 CC
MILEAGE: 168,965
Customer Concern: The vehicle came to the shop with a squeaking noise. Found the noise to be coming from the center support of the drive shaft. Pulled the drive shaft and sent it out for diagnosis and repair. After repair, it was re-installed but the noise was still there, but not as loud. Removed the drive shaft again and sent it back to the driveline repair shop who re-checked and re-did their work. The vehicle was returned to the customer but 400 miles later it came back with a vibration concern. When reaching 50 MPH, the vibration begins. You feel it in the seat like a massage chair and a droning noise is heard inside. Removed the shaft and test drove and found the concern gone. The drive shaft was sent it back to the driveline shop for a balance. They said the boot was torn on the center support because something hit it. We got it back and it's doing the same thing.
Tests: 1. Are the U-joints phased correctly? Put a small magnet bubble level on the front and rear U-joints. They should be parallel to each other.
Potential Causes: Driveshaft Phase
Confirmed Fix: Adjusted Driveshaft Phase
MILEAGE: 168,965
Customer Concern: The vehicle came to the shop with a squeaking noise. Found the noise to be coming from the center support of the drive shaft. Pulled the drive shaft and sent it out for diagnosis and repair. After repair, it was re-installed but the noise was still there, but not as loud. Removed the drive shaft again and sent it back to the driveline repair shop who re-checked and re-did their work. The vehicle was returned to the customer but 400 miles later it came back with a vibration concern. When reaching 50 MPH, the vibration begins. You feel it in the seat like a massage chair and a droning noise is heard inside. Removed the shaft and test drove and found the concern gone. The drive shaft was sent it back to the driveline shop for a balance. They said the boot was torn on the center support because something hit it. We got it back and it's doing the same thing.
Tests: 1. Are the U-joints phased correctly? Put a small magnet bubble level on the front and rear U-joints. They should be parallel to each other.
Potential Causes: Driveshaft Phase
Confirmed Fix: Adjusted Driveshaft Phase
Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 3.5L, V6, MFI, DOHC, Eng Version N/R, Bosch, 3500 CC
Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 3.5L, V6, MFI, DOHC, Eng Version N/R, Bosch, 3500 CC
Customer Concern: The customer stated that the vehicle would not accelerate. Road tested the vehicle and it runs and drives fine. There is an Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor 2 circuit code P2127.
Tests:
1. Locate the APS sensor, located under the hood by the brake booster, and verify there is a good connection and 5-volts on the Green wire and the Red/Orange wire. Next, verify that the grounds are good on the Brown and Black/White wire. If the 5-volts and ground are good, then back probe the Pink wire for APS #2 and the White wire for APS #1 and both sensors should sweep together from about 0.5 volt to about 5 volts. Use a scope, if necessary, to see the signal drop out. If the signal drops out, replace the sensor.
2. If the signal is good then check the signal at the Engine Control Module (ECM) and look for a harness or a connection issue.
Potential Causes: Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor Circuit
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
Customer Concern: The customer stated that the vehicle would not accelerate. Road tested the vehicle and it runs and drives fine. There is an Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor 2 circuit code P2127.
Tests:
1. Locate the APS sensor, located under the hood by the brake booster, and verify there is a good connection and 5-volts on the Green wire and the Red/Orange wire. Next, verify that the grounds are good on the Brown and Black/White wire. If the 5-volts and ground are good, then back probe the Pink wire for APS #2 and the White wire for APS #1 and both sensors should sweep together from about 0.5 volt to about 5 volts. Use a scope, if necessary, to see the signal drop out. If the signal drops out, replace the sensor.
Potential Causes: Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor Circuit
Confirmed Fix: Replaced Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ 5.3L, V8, MFI, OHV, VIN J, Eng Desg LY5 airbag problem
Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ 5.3L, V8, MFI, OHV, VIN J, Eng Desg LY5
Air bags deployed and components replaced. Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) codes B1019 00, B1001 00, B0098 52, B0088 3A, B0087 3A, B0086 3A, B0085 3A, B0084 3A, B0083 3A, B0081 3A, B0081 71, B0081 0F, B0080 06, B0024 04, B0017 04, B1001 00.
| Tests: | 1. Program and set up the Inflatable Restraint Vehicle Rollover Sensor (ROS).2. Key On Engine Off (KOEO) with the Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles perform the Setup New ROS procedure for the ROS.3. Clear all codes and verify no current faults are present. 4. Program the Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM) and perform the setup procedure.5. In the BCM Module Setup menu, select Setup SDM Primary Key in BCM. Follow the scan tool on screen instructions. 6. In the SDM Module Setup menu, select Setup SDM. Follow the scan tool on screen instructions. 7. Cycle the ignition from OFF to ON. Verify no DTCs are set. 8. In the BCM Module Setup menu, select Setup SDM Primary Key in BCM. Follow the scan tool on screen instructions.
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