Saturday, April 11, 2009

Changing spark plugs on a nissan maxima

Here are some more details on how you can change your own spark plugs on your Nissan Maxima:

Tools and Supplies Needed:

Socket Wrench
Socket Wrench Extentions
Sparkplug Wrench Attachment
8mm Socket
12mm Deep Socket
4mm Hex Tool
Phillips Screwdriver (Optional)



Estimated time: 30 Minutes



1. Here are a picture of the Tools I used to change the spark plugs.

2. I used NGK Copper Plugs for my replacement. This is optional, the maxima is recommended to run with Platinum Plugs, however copper provides a better spark and the only down side is it will only last for 30k instead of 60k for platinum plugs. The Nissan Part # for these plugs are 22401 - 50Y05. you can walk into any Nissan Dealership and give them this part number for these copper plugs. The NGK name for the plugs are NGK V-Power Copper BKR5E-11, all this information was obtained from Bill from Maxima.org
3. You will have to remove the valve cover to access the front coil packs & spark plugs, the valve cover is secured by 4 hex screws and can be seen on the graphic to the right with red dots in them.
4. Use your 4mm Hex Tool to remove the Hex screws from the valve cover.
5. Once the Valve Cover is removed you will see the Coil Packs for the Spark Plugs, i have numbered them 1 - 3 in the diagram to the right. Please note this is not the order in the firing of the spark plugs, i just named them 1 - 3 for illustration of location.
6. Use your socket wrench and 8mm Socket to remove the Screws that are securing the Coil Packs. A Phillips screwdriver is optional, however if the screws are pretty tight, you can end up damaging the screw. A Socket Extention is recommend but not required as it allows the job to be much easier.
7. Once the Coil Pack Screws are removed you can lift out the coil packs.
8. Use your Socket Wrench, Extension and Spark Plug Socket and remove the Sparkplugs from the engine.
9. Here is a picture of the Spark Plug removed from the engine.
10. Here is a picture of the Platinum and Copper plugs side by side.
11. Here is another shot.
12. Once you have removed your old spark plug, you may now insert your new spark plug into the engine. The FSM suggests 14 - 22 ft lbs for torquing the Spark Plugs. If you don't have a torque wrench i have found a method that works for me, please don't do this unless you want to, i will not be reponsible. The method i use is, once the plug becomes snug, i then make one full 1/4 turn with the wrench. Again do this at your own risk.
13. Once you are done tightening up your new front plugs re-insert your coil packs.
14. Use your Socket Wrench and 8mm Socket to tighten up the coil packs to make them secure.
15. One you have tighten all your coil packs you are ready to put back your valve cover.
16. Use your 4mm Hex Tool to tighten up your valve cover and now you are ready to do the rear plugs.
17. The rear spark plugs are located towards the back of the engine inbetween the intake manifold. As you can see on the right. Once again i have numbered them for illustration and not for firing order.
18. Use your socket wrench and 8mm Socket to remove the Screws that are securing the Coil Packs. A Phillips screwdriver is optional, however if the screws are pretty tight, you can end up damaging the screw. A Socket Extention is recommend or an 8mm deep socket. Becareful with these screws as they can get lost in the engine real easily.
19. The Coil Pack to the driver side of the car is very hard to get to and will require you removing two nuts to get to it. The first one i have labeled "1". You will now use your 12 mm Deep Socket to remove this Nut.
20. Here is a picture of the Second Nut label "2"
21. To ensure that you don't mix up coil packs when you are replacing the rear plugs, put them in order as they would go in the Engine, I have labeled 1 2 3 on the Engine Location and 1 2 3 on how it appears where i have put them temporarily.
22. Use your Socket Wrench, Extension and Spark Plug Socket and remove the Sparkplugs from the engine.
23. Once you have removed your old spark plug, you may now insert your new spark plug into the engine. The FSM suggests 14 - 22 ft lbs for torquing the Spark Plugs. If you don't have a torque wrench i have found a method that works for me, please don't do this unless you want to, i will not be reponsible. The method i use is, once the plug becomes snug, i then make one full 1/4 turn with the wrench. Again do this at your own risk.
24. Once you are done inserting your new plugs. Use your 8mm Socket / Extension and Socket Wrench to replace the rear coil packs.
25. Use your 12 mm Deep Socket / Socket Wrench to tighten up the two Nuts near the last coil pack.
26. Now you have replaced your Spark Plugs.

7 comments:

  1. What do you mean by the phrase, copper provides a better spark?" Actual dyno tests? Measured electrical discharge? Or are you getting into conductivity parameters?

    I have used every plug imaginable in my 1992 Max and 1998 I30, and from daily on-the-street, stop-and-go, highway cruising, and full-bore drag strip performance, nothing beats NGK Iridium IX.

    No fouling. No misfires or knocks. No RF interference. No oil leaks. Put 100+ on four different sets.

    The sheeple on forums crack on my use of them because "platinum is MFR recommended OEM."

    Duh! Iridium was not around in 1998, and had it been, Iridium would be the metal of choice.

    ReplyDelete
  2. There was a discussion about Iridiums on Maxima.org a while back. I read
    up on Iridiums and found some interesting facts;

    first, Iridiums don't last as long as Platinums. The Plats will go 60K,
    but the Iridiums will go 30K. Funny how they tout the hardness of
    Iridium being better becasue the metal is harder, yet they don't last.
    Second, copper plugs are still the best type of plug for producing
    spark, but those things don't last at all, these modern distributorless
    ignition systems will wear them out right quick. If you go to the web
    sites of company's like Denso and NGK who sell iridiums, sometimes
    you'll even see charts where they compare metal's hardness and
    electrical properties. Suspiciously absent is copper in these comparisons.

    If you don't want to change your plugs often, just stick with the
    plats. IF you don't mind changing your plugs ore often, then you might
    as well get copper because they're cheap and have the best electrical
    properties for a spark plug. If anything, an iridium plug may make your
    car have cleaner emissions, but there won't be a night and day
    difference. I think a vehicle has to be designed from the ground up to
    take advantage of what Iridium has to offer. The Maxima was designed
    with Plats in mind, so they're hard to beat

    ReplyDelete
  3. The pictures don't work, or are too small to be useful in the way they are shown.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I see the links are broken, I apologize and will work to get them repaired

      Delete
  4. Yes the pictures would help greatly please

    ReplyDelete
  5. Yes the pictures would help greatly please

    ReplyDelete